Piolets d'Or - 2019 Significant ascents

2019 - Significant ascents

The following is a representative list of significant, innovative ascents in most mountain regions of the World, climbed during 2019, in alpine style, and without using drilled equipment. This is not a list of nominated ascents for the Piolets d'Or and should not be confused with such: it is a selection of routes that are noteworthy within their particularly regions. Grades are those quoted by the first ascensionists and remain unconfirmed. The number of bivouacs noted is for the ascent only. Some web links may not convey a completely true picture of events, but are currently the best available.


This preliminary list of significant first ascents during 2019 was compiled by Lindsay Griffin (Senior Editor, American Alpine Journal), with help from Dougald MacDonald (Editor in Chief, American Alpine Journal) and Rodolphe Popier (Club Alpin Francais)

 

ASIA

India

Gangotri, Bhagirathi IV (6,193m)
Matteo della Bordella-Luca Schiera-Matteo de Zaiacomo (Italy)

West face, Cavalli Bardati, 800m 7b, two points of aid (A0). In a day (September).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/bhagirathi-iv-matteo-della-bordella-reports-successful-west-face-expedition.html

Kinnaur, Midi d'Ossau (4,670m)
Eneko Pou-Iker Pou (Spain)

The Latin Brother, 560m, 7c+. In a day (September).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/bapsa-valley-three-new-indian-himalaya-climbs-by-pou-brothers.html

Himachal Pradesh, Menthosa (6,443m)
Spencer Gray-Rushad Nanavatty (USA)

First ascent of south ridge, 1,350m, ED2 WI4 M6. Four bivouacs (August)
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215421

Zanskar, Chareze Ri North (5,959m)
Davide Limongi-Federico Martinelli-Enrico Mosetti-Federico Secchi-Luca Valleta (Italy)

First ascent via east-northeast ridge, Jullay Temù, 1,000m, V+ 70°. One bivouac (August).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215137

Nepal

Mahalangur Himal, Chamlang, (Point 7,240m)
Nicolas Jean - Benjamin Védrines (France)

Northeast couloir, ca 1,500m, M3/M4 65°. One bivouac (October).

Mahalangur Himal, Chamlang (7,321m)
Marek Holeček - Zdeněk Hák (Czech Republic)

Northwest face, UFO Line, 2,500m, WI5 M6. Four bivouacs (May)
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/chamlang-ufo-line-marek-holecek-reports-alpine-style-first-ascent-nepal.html

Rolwaling Himal, Chhopa Bamare (6,109m)
Benjamin Billet (France) - John Kelley(USA)

First ascent via southeast face and south ridge, Seto Hi'um, 1,100m, TD, M4 WI4. Five bivouacs (February)
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web19c/newswire-fa-chhopa-bamare

Mahalangur Himal, Lobuche East (6,090m)
Anna Pfaff - Sammy Podhurst (USA)

Southwest face, possible partial new route, 1,100m. One bivouac, (October).

Mahalangur Himal, Peak (6,065m)
Ana Gracia-Rubén - Gómez Perez - Ángel Luis Salamanca (Spain)

Northeast couloir and northwest ridge, to 10m below summit, 650m, 6a M4 80°. In a day (May).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215260

Kumbhakarna Himal, Jannu (7,710m)
Dmitry Golovchenko - Sergey Nilov (Russia)

First ascent of east face to southeast ridge (not to summit), Unfinished Symphony, ca 2,500m, ED, 80+°. 12 bivouacs (March)
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web19s/newswire-two-russian-alpinists-establish-new-high-point-jannu

Rolwaling Himal, Tengi Ragi Tau (6,938m)
Alan Rousseau - Tino Villanueva (USA)

West face, Release the Kraken, 1,600m, AI5 M5+. Three bivouacs (October)
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web19f/newswire-release-the-kraken-tengi-ragi-tau

Rolwaling Himal, Tengi Ragi Tau, north summit (ca 6,820m)
Silvan Schupbach (Switzerland) - Symon Welfringer

West face, Trinité, 1,500m, AI5 M6. Two bivouacs (October).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/tengi-ragi-tau-west-face-new-route-silvan-schupbach-symon-welfringer.html

Mahalangur Himal, Kyajo Ri (6,186m)
Ivan Osipoy - Dmitry Rybalchenko - Vitaly Shipilov - Andrey Vasiliev (Russia)

West face, The Way of the Dragon, 950m, ED2 5c A3+ Mixed. Six bivouacs (October)
https://www.naiz.eus/en/hemeroteca/gara/editions/2019-12-30/hemeroteca_articles/laukote-errusiar-batek-kyajo-rin-dragoiaren-arrastoa-utzi-du [Spanish Basque]

Manaslu Himal, Panpoche I (6,620m)
Archil Badriashvili - Baqar Gelashvili - Giorgi Tepnadze (Georgia)

First ascent via north ridge, 2,300m from base camp, ED, 70°, three bivouacs (October); Panpoche II (6,504m), first ascent via southwest ridge and south face, 2,600m from base camp, ED 80°, two bivouacs (September)
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215448

China

Bogda Ola Massif, Bogda V (5,216m)
Dili Xiati - Kang Hua - Li Zongli (China)

Northwest face, 1,300m, TD+, AI3+ 5.10+ M5 75°. One bivouac (August).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215395

Daxue Shan, Mt Grosvenor (6,376m)
Pierrick Fine - Etienne Journet - Jordi Noguere (France)

West face, Tcheu c'te Panthère, 1,300m, ED, AI6. One bivouac (October).
https://alpinemag.fr/sur-les-traces-de-la-panthere-chinoise/ [French]

Tatsienlu Massif, Lamo-she (6,070m)
Tomas Franchini (Italy)

First ascent via southeast face and northeast ridge, Wild Blood, 1,500m, WI5 M5+ V 90°. In a day (May)
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215262

Kyrgyzstan

Western Kokshaal-too, Chon-turasu (5,728m)
Kirill Belotserkovskiy - Max Ten (Kazakhstan)

North face. Three bivouacs (August)
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215436

Karavshin, Kotina (4,521m)
Evgeny Corulin - Vasily Terekhin (Russia)

West face and southwest face, Krasnoyarsk Route, 1,200m, but 1,800m of climbing, 5B, 7a. In a day (July).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215432

Karavshin, Kotina (4,521m)
Gebhard Bendler - Christoph Schranz (Austria)

West face and southwest face, Krukonogi, 1,200m but almost 2,000m of climbing, 7a+. In a day (July).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215435

Surmetash Valley, Sauk Dzhaylyau Central (5,227m)
Anton Kashevnik - Alexey Tyulyupo (Russia)

Northeast face, 1,377m but 1,750m of climbing, 6A, ED, WI5 M5. Two bivouacs (September).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215434

Russia

Buryatia, South Muya Ridge, Mechta (Dream Peak, 2,590m)
Evgeny Glazunov - Nadezhda Oleneva - Pavel Tkachenko (Russia)

West face, 800m, 5B-6A, 7a with a little aid. In a day (July).
https://www.facebook.com/isnotimpossible.f/

Pakistan

Baltoro Muztagh, Black Tooth (6,719m)
Simon Messner (Italy) - Martin Sieberer (Austria)

first ascent, east ridge and traverse, WI5+ M5. Two bivouacs (July).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215306

Ghujerab Mountains, Chashkin I (6,035m)
Tico Gangulee (USA)

First ascent via southwest ridge, Steeze Matters 900m, ED, 5.11c M4+ 85°. In a day (June).
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web19c/newsire-fa-Chaskin-i

Baltoro Muztagh, Gasherbrum II (8,034m)
Denis Urubko (Russia-Poland)

Southwest face, Honeymoon 1,935m, TD WI3 M6. Over two days - no bivouac (August)
https://www.camp.it/blogPost.aspx?CAT=57&ID=571&T=CB

Rakaposhi Range, Rakaposhi (7,788m)
Kazuya Hiraide - Kenro Nakajima (Japan)

South face and southeast ridge, 4,000m from base camp. Six bivouacs (July).
https://asian-alpine-e-news.com/asian_alpine_e-new_issue_no53.pdf

Saltoro Group, Sherpi Kangri II (ca 7,000m)
Matt Cornell - Jackson Marvel - Kurt Ross (USA)

Southeast ridge, 1,100m on final pyramid, AI4. One bivouac on final pyramid (August).
https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/american-team-makes-first-ascent-of-unclimbed-7100-meter-peak-in-kashmir/

Hindu Raj, Koyo Zom (6,877m)
Tom Livingstone - Ally Swinton (UK)

Northwest face, The Great Game, 1,500m, ED+. Four bivouacs (September). Rescue on descent.
https://www.tomlivingstone.com/climbing-blog-1/2020/2/22/the-great-game-koyo-zom-pakistan-2019

Hindu Raj, Risht Peak (5,950m)
Pierrick Fine - Antoine Rolle - Aurélien Vaissière - Symon Welfringer (France)

North face, Sur la route de l'école, 500m, WI5 M6. In a day (May)
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215279

Masherbrum Range, Link Sar (7,041m)
Mark Richey-Steve Swenson-Chris Wright-Graham Zimmerman (USA

First ascent via southeast face, 2,300m, AI4 M6+ 90°. Five bivouacs (August)
https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/link-sar-full-trip-report-on-first-ascent-by-zimmerman-swenson-wright-and-richey/

Gasherbrum VII (6,955m)
Carlo Cimenti (with Francesco Cassardo to 6,800m)

First ascent (and ski descent) via the northeast face, ca 700m, D+, 60°. In a day (July).
https://rockandice.com/climbing-accidents/a-miracle-rescue-on-gasherbrum-vii/

NORTH AMERICA

Alaska

Central Alaska Range, Mt Dickey (2,909m)
Jackson Marvel - Alan Rousseau (USA)

East face, Ruth Gorge Grinder, 1,500m, AI6+ M7 A1. Two bivouacs (April)
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215289

Revelation Mountains, Apocalypse North (2,750m)
Janez Svoljšak - Miha Župin (Slovenia)

First ascent via northwest face - Slovenian Route, 1,300m, AI4+ M6 R 85°, traversed mountain. In a day (April)
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215331

Canada

Coast Mountains, Pacific Ranges, Mt Waddington (4,019m)
Simon Richardson (UK) - Ian Welsted (Canada)

West to east traverse including the first ascent of the complete west-northwest ridge, 12km. Four bivouacs (August)
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215312

Canadian Rockies, Mount Fay (3,235m)
Brette Harrington (USA) - Luka Lindič (Slovenia) - Ines Papert (Germany)

First direct ascent of the east face, Sound of Silence, 1,100m, WI5 M8. One bivouac (April)
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web19c/newswire-sound-of-silence-mt-fay

Canadian Rockies, Howse Peak (3,295m)
Hansjörg Auer (Austria) - David Lama (Austria) - Jess Roskelley (USA)

East face, 1,345m, WI6 (+?). All three climbers died on the descent. In a day (April)
https://gripped.com/news/heres-the-route-climbed-by-lama-roskelley-and-auer-on-howse/

Canadian Rockies, Storm Mountain (3,158m)
Ethan Berman (USA)- Maarten van Hearen (Canada)

Northeast face, Eye of the Storm, 700m, WI5 M6. In a day (October)
https://gripped.com/news/eye-of-the-storm-is-new-rockies-alpine-route/

SOUTH AMERICA

Peru

Cordillera Vilcabamba, Salcantay (6,271m)
Oriol Baró - Ferran Rodríguez - Guillem Sancho (Spain)

Southeast face, Manjar Rubio, 1,250m, ED. In a day (June).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215445

Cordillera Vilcanota, Jatunhuma South (6,070m)
Oriol Baró - Ferran Rodríguez - Guillem Sancho (Spain)

South face, Adrenaline, 900m, ED+. ). In a day (June).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215445

Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Norte (6,360m)
Radoslav Groh - Marek Holeček (Czech Republic)

East face, Boys 1970, 1,200m, ED+ WI6 M6, partially new route and different conditions. Two bivouacs (August)
https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/marek-holecek-does-beautiful-fa-in-peru-under-a-burning-sky/

Cordillera Huayhuash, Siula Grande (6,368m)
Benjamin Billet (France) - Luis Crispin (Peru)-Nathan Heald (USA) - Arttu Pylkkanen (Finland) - Thomas Schilter (Peru)

South face, Peruana Supreme, 1,000m, TD, AI4. In a day (June)
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/peruana-supreme-up-sse-face-siula-grande-peru.html

EUROPE

Greenland

Cape Farewell, Torssukatak Fjord, Peak (1,303m)
Rune Harejo Jensen (Norway) - Charlie Long (Canada) - Andreas Widlund (Sweden)

East-northeast pillar, Ægir, 600m of climbing, 5.11c C1, seconded at 5.12b. In a day (August)
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215411

Norway

Sunndalen, Snovasskjerdingan Centraltind (1,520m)
Jan Kuczera - Wadim Jabłoński - Kacper Tekieli (Poland)

Southwest face, Tordenruta, 450m, M7 WI3 R. In a day (February).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215390

Lofoten, Moskenesøy, Stamprevtiden South (748m)
Bernat Bilarrassa - Gerber Cucurell - Jordi Esteve (Spain)

East face, The Human Timeline, 600m, 7/7+. in a day (May).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215389

Alps & Dolomites

Vanoise, Pointe Orientale de l'Epena (3,348m)
Léo Billon - Julien Ravanello - Benjamin Védrines (France)

Northwest spur, 765m (summer TD 5c), First winter ascent. In a day (February)

Ecrins, Rateau West Summit (3,769m)
Mathieu Détrie - Octave Garbolino (France)

North face, Bonne Pioche, 500m, ED, M6 6a A1. In a day (February)
Second ascent with direct finish, M7 6a, Sébastien Ratel - Benjamin Védrines (France). In a day (March).
http://maxbonniot.blogspot.com/2018/09/groucho-marx-en-libre-fe-des-grandes.html (in French)

Mont Blanc Range, Aiguille de l'Amone (3,584m)
Simon Chatelan - Silvan Schupbach (Switzerland)

East face, L'accidentelle et l'accidenté, 850m, M7. One bivouac (February).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/aiguille-de-amone-new-east-face-climb-simon-chatelan-silvan-schupbach.html

Bregaglia, Piz Badile (3,305m)
David Hefti - Marcus Schenk (Switzerland)

Northeast face, Nardella Route, first free ascent, 900m, 7b+ 7a R. Two ancient belay bolts replaced, one bivouac (September).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/pizzo-badile-free-nardella-climbed-by-marcel-schenk-david-hefti.html

Punta Civetta (2,920m)
Davide Cassol - Luca Vallata (Italy)

Northwest face, Capitani di Ventura, 700m, VIII- A1. Over four separate days - one day on final ascent (September)
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/new-civetta-dolomites-climb-by-davide-cassol-luca-vallata.html

Sassolungo (3,181m)
Aaron Moroder - Titus Prinoth (Italy)

North face, Parole Sante, 1,050m (650m of new ground), VIII A1. After a previous attempt with Matteo Vinatzer, one day (July)
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/big-new-rock-climb-up-langkofel-in-dolomites.html

Sass dla Crusc (2,907m)
Manuel Baumgartner - Simon Messner (Italy)

Northwest face, Rapunzel, long snow face followed by four steep pitches (120m), M8 WI6+. In a day (December).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/rapunzel-sass-de-la-crusc-dolomites-mixed-climb-simon-messner-manuel-baumgartner.html

2020 Organizers