Piolets d'Or - Ascensions marquantes 2018

Ascensions marquantes 2018

Voici les ascensions effectuées en 2018 qui illustrent le mieux la Charte des Piolets d’Or, en utilisant des critères incluant l’innovation, l’économie de moyens, l’exigence et la difficulté du niveau  technique,  ou  encore  l’élégance  et  le  respect  des  personnes  et  de  l’environnement. 


Cette liste préliminaire a été compilée par Lindsay Griffin (Senior Editor, American Alpine Journal), avec l'aide de  Dougald MacDonald (Editor in Chief, American Alpine Journal) et Rodolphe Popier (Himalayan Database)

ASIE

Inde

Kishtwar Himalaya, Cerro Kishtwar (6,173m)
Genki Narumi - Yusuki Sato - Hiroki Yamamoto (Japan)

Northeast face, Aal Izz Well, 1,500m, VI WI5 M6. One bivouac (September).
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web18f/newswire-new-route-on-cerro-kishtwar-ne-face

Kinnaur, Baspa Valley, Peak (6,050m)
Hansjorg Auer - Max Berger - Much Mayr - Guido Unterwurzacher (Austria)

First ascent via southeast face, 1,000m on face. Two bivouacs above base camp at 3,200m (October).
http://web.hansjoerg-auer.at/first-ascent-of-the-unknown-peak-6050m

Gangotri, Janhukot (6,805m)
Malcolm Bass - Guy Buckingham - Paul Figg (UK)

First ascent via southwest buttress and upper south-southwest ridge, 1,700m, ED1, Scottish IV. Three bivouacs (June)
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/janhukot-first-ascent-in-indian-himalaya-by-british-expedition.html

Garhwal, Changabang (6,864m)
Leo Billon - Sébastien Moatti - Sébastien Ratel (France)

North face (not to summit), 1996 to 1997 British link, 1,200m (40 pitches), AI5 M6. Two bivouacs (May).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/changabang-north-face-alpine-style-by-frances-leo-billon-sebastien-moatti-sebastien-ratel.html

Pakistan

Kachqiant (6,015m)
Danny Schoch-Bas Visscher (the Netherlands)

First ascent via northeast ridge, 1,000m, TD-, 60-70°. One bivouac (June/July).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/kachqiant-climbed-in-pakistan-hindu-raj-by-danny-schoch-bas-visscher.html

Nanga Parbat (8,125m)
Tomasz Mackiewicz (Poland) - Elisabeth Revol (France)

First complete ascent of the northwest (Diama) face (some new ground), ca 4,000m from base camp. Five bivouacs (January). Mackiewicz died on the descent.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214680/Nanga-Parbat-Second-Winter-Ascent-First-Complete-Ascent-of-Northwest-Face-and-Rescue

Luphgar Sar West (7,157m)
Hansjorg Auer (Austria)

West face, ca 1,000m, M4 55°. Solo, in a day (July).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/hansjorg-auer-lupghar-sar-west-solo-ascent-details.html

Latok I (7,145m)
Ales Cesen - Luka Strazar (Slovenia) - Tom Livingstone (UK)

North ridge/face and south face, 2,400m ED+. Six bivouacs (August).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/latok-1-the-ales-cesen-interview.html

Latok I (7,145m)
Sergey Glazunov-Alexander Gukov (Russia)

North ridge (not to summit, high point on meeting summit ridge), 2,300m. 10 bivouacs (July).
http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=8677

Suma Brakk (6,166m)
Fabian Buhl-Alex Huber (Germany)

South ridge, The Big Easy, 1,100m but 2,200m (56 pitches) of climbing, 5.10+ R A1 M6. Two bivouacs on final ascent, some rope fixed (August).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/fabian-buhl-alexander-huber-climb-choktoi-ri-in-karakorum-pakistan.html

Hainabrakk East Tower (5,650m)
Pete Fasoldt - Jonathan Schaffer (USA)

Southeast face, Heinous Broccoli Robbery, 1,100m, 5.11+ A1. Two bivouacs (summer).
No weblink currently (future AAJ)

Gasherbrum II (8,034m)
Felix Berg (Germany) - Adam Bielecki (Poland)

Southwest ridge and southwest face (partial new route), ca 700m from last camp on normal route. In a day (July).
https://blogs.dw.com/adventuresports/summit-attempts-on-gasherbrum-iv-abandoned/

Changi II (6,250m)
Nelson Neirinck (Belgium) - Jess Roskelley - Kurt Ross (USA)

South face and west ridge, Hard Tellin' not Knowin', M6 AI4. One bivouac above high camp (August). Other routes in Lachit Valley.
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/new-climbs-on-two-karakorum-6000ers.html

Népal

Himjung (7,092m)
Vitus Auer-Sebastien Fuchs-Stefan Larcher (Austria)

West ridge and traverse of mountain, ca 2,200m from base camp, 55° UIAA III. One bivouac (October/November).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/himjung-nepal-vitus-auer-sebastian-fuchs-stefan-larcher-climb-new-route-up-7000er.html

Langdung (6,386m)
Jesus Ibarz-Edu Recio-Pablo Ruiz (Spain)

Southeast ridge, Bihana, 700m (but 1,500m of climbing), 6c+. In a day after fixing a small amount of rope (October).
http://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/esteban-mena-roberto-jose-morales-y-nico-navarrete-abren-rdirecta-ecuatorianar-al-larkya-sur

Drangnag Ri (6,757m)
Iñaki Arakistain-Alberto Fernández-Joseba Larrañaga-Mikel Zabalza (Spain)

Southwest ridge, Bizipenak, 1,500m, ED-, AI5 UIAA V. Two bivouacs (October).
https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/las-vivencias-en-el-drangnag-ri-de-mikel-zabalza-alberto-fernandez-joseba-larranaga-e-inaki-arakistain (in Spanish)

Lunag Ri (6,895m)
David Lama (Austria)

First ascent via west ridge, 90°. Solo, two bivouacs (October).
https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/interview-david-lama-on-his-lunag-ri-solo/

Kyajo Ri (6,151m)
Zdenek Hak-Marek Holecek (Czech Republic)

West face, north ridge, and northeast face, Lapse of Reason, 1,200m, ED+, M6 WI4+ UIAA III+. One bivouac on route (May).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/marek-holecek-and-zdenek-hak-climb-new-route-up-kyajo-ri-in-nepal.html

Pumori (7,161m)
Romeo Popa-Zsolt Torok-Teofil Vlad (Romania)

Southeast face, Le Voyage du Petit Prince, ca 1,400m, ED, M6 AI4 R. Five bivouacs (October), descent southwest ridge and west face.
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/pumori-southeast-face-climbed-via-new-romanian-route.html

Sharphu II (6,328m)
Spencer Gray-Aivaras Sajus (USA)

First ascent via east face, Samsara, 730m, ED2 AI5 M6. Two bivouacs (October), traversed the mountain.
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/sharphu-ii-in-himalaya-climbed-spencer-gray-aivaras-sajus.html

Chine

Daxue Shan, Minya Konka (7,556m)
Li Zongli-Xiao Hai (China)

North spur and northeast ridge, 2,800m alpine style from base camp. Three bivouacs (October)
http://asian-alpine-e-news.com/asian_alpine_e-new_issue_no43.pdf

Kyrgyzstan

Western Kokshaal-too, Kyzyl Asker (5,842m)
Evgeny Murin-Ilya Penyaev (Russia)

Southeast face, ca 1,150m (31 pitches), 6B/ED2 7a+ A2 M5. Seven bivouacs (July)
https://www.risk.ru/blog/215659

Djangart Range, Pik Alexander (5,290m)
Line van den Berg-Wout Martens (Netherlands)

North face, Dutch Direct, 800m, TD+, 90°. Descended new route on south side of mountain. Other routes. One bivouac, (September).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/big-dutch-climbs-in-kyrgyzstan-djangart-range.html

Géorgie

Shkhara (5,203m)
Archil Badriashvili - Giorgi Tepnadze (Georgia)

New route and first winter ascent of south face, 2,500m (60+ pitches), ED2 M5 WI5 75-80°. Seven bivouacs (February).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214600/Thirteen-Days-on-Shkhara-A-New-Route-and-First-Winter-Ascent-From-the-South

Tajikistan

Korzhenevskaya (7,105m)
Roman Abildaev - Alexey Usatykh (both Russian) - Semen Dvornichenko - Sergey Seliverstov (both Kyrgyzstan)

South face, Ol'cha, ca 2,000m, 60-80°. Five bivouacs (January).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214769/Pik-Korzhenevskaya-South-Face-Olcha

AMERIQUE DU NORD

Montana

Cabinet Mountains, A Peak (2,632m)
Scott Coldiron-Jess Roskelley (USA)

Central Couloir, 800m, M7 AI5, and other routes. One bivouac (November).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/jess-roskelley-scott-coldiron-climb-a-peak-central-couloir-cabinet-mountains-usa.html

Alaska

Revelation Mountains, Mt Jezebel northeast summit (2,880m)
Uisdean Hawthorn - Tom Livingstone (UK)

East face, Fun or Fear, 1,200m, M6+ AI6 R 90°. One bivouac (April)
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web18s/newswire-fun-or-fear-on-jezebel

Revelation Mountains, Hydra Peak (2,380m)
Thomas Auvaro-Jeremy Fino - Antoine Rolle (France)

Northeast face, Fa Pa Caou Per Aqui, 600m, ED, M8. In a day (April), and other routes.
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/french-forge-new-routes-in-alaska-revelation-mountains.html

West Kahiltna Peak (3,912m)
Nik Mirhashemi - Kurt Ross (USA)

Southwest face, Ride the Bullet, 1,200m, AI5+ R M6+ C1. One bivouac (April).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214817/West-Kahiltna-Peak-Southwest-Face-Ride-the-Bullet

Mendenhall Tower, Main tower (2,106m)
Marc André Leclerc (Canada)-Ryan Johnson (USA)

North face, 750m. One bivouac (March), both climbers died on the descent.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214857/Mendenhall-Tower-North-Face

Devil's Paw (2,616m)
Brette Harrington-Gabe Hayden (USA)

West face, Shaa Teix'i, 1,300m, 5.11a. In a day (September).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/devils-paw-alaska-brette-harrington-gabe-hayden-climb-west-face.html

Canada

Selkirk Mountains, Mt MacDonald (2,883m)
Chris Wright-Graham Zimmerman (USA)

North face, The Indirect American, 1,000m, WI4+ M7. Two bivouacs (November).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/chris-wright-graham-zimmerman-add-the-indirect-american-mt-macdonald-canada.html

Rockies, Mt Temple (3,547m)
Alik Berg (Canada)

East-northeast face, The Milkwater, 1,250m, V WI4 M4. Solo, in a day (December).
https://gripped.com/news/alik-berg-climbs-big-line-mount-temple/

Rockies, Mt Slesse (2,439m)
Marc Andre Leclerc (Canada) - Tom Livingstone (UK)

East face, Navigator Wall, first winter ascent, 700m, ED1 M7+ R (Scottish VIII/IX). In a day (January)
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web18w/newswire-navigator-wall-winter-ascent

Rockies, Mt Blane (2,993m)
Brette Harrington (USA) - Rose Pearson (NZ)

West face, Life Compass (a winter-conditions repeat of the 1957 Kahl-Schotten summer route), 980m, TD+, 5.10a, M4+ 80°. In a day (April).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214833/Mt-Blane-West-Face-Life-Compass

AMERIQUE DU SUD

Argentine-Chili

Torres del Paine, Cerro Almirante Nieto (2,440m)
Felipe Bishara-Christian Barra Munoz (Chile)

South-southeast face, Linea de Libertad, ca 700m, 75-90° ice, unstable snow. In a day (August).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214927/Cerro-Almirante-Nieto-South-Face-Linea-de-Libertad

Southern Patagonia, Cerro Riso Patron Sur (2,350m)
Matteo della Bordella (Italy) - Silvan Schupbach (Switzerland)

First ascent, southwest face-King Kong, 900m, M7+ 90°. In a day (February).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214754/Cerro-Riso-Patrn-Sur-Southwest-Face

Cerro San Lorenzo, south pillar (El Faro, 3,150m)
Martin Elias (Spain) - Francois Poncet - Jerome Sullivan (both France)

La Milagrosa, 1,200m, 6a M7 A3. One bivouac (October)
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214925/Cerro-San-Lorenzo-South-Pillar-El-Faro

Northern Patagonia, Punta Pantagruel (2,410m)
Felipe Cancino (Chile)-Max Fisher (Canada)-Willy Oppenheim (USA)

First ascent via east face, Brisa Suave, 350m, M6 C1 70°. In a day (September). In a day (February)
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214737/Northern-Patagonian-Icefield-Punta-Pantagruel-and-Cerro-Fantasma

Bolivie

Pérou

Cordillera Vilcanota, Campa II (ca 5,650m)
Luis Crispin-Macario Crispin (Peru)-Duncan McDaniel (USA)

West face, 600m, AI3 M4 85°. In a day (August).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214924/Jampa-II-West-Face

Cordillera Huayhuash, Jurau A (5,640m)
Jose Maria Andres-Samuel Gomez (Spain)

Northeast face, Chanchos y Chacras, not to summit, 1,000m, 6c M4+ 65°. In a day (September). Two bivouacs (June).
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214872/Jurau-A-and-Jurau-B-New-Routes-Not-To-Summits-Disambiguation-and-Notes-on-2018-Climbs

Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Huantsan (6,395m)
Devin Corboy (USA) - Macario Crispin (Peru) - Nathan Heald (USA) - Arttu Pylkkanen (Finland) - Javier Reyes (Chile) - Johannes Suikkanen (Finland)

South ridge - west summit to main summit, Apus Circus, 1,200m, ED, WI4 M5. One bivouac on final push (July). Several ropes placed on initial section
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214962/Nevado-Huantsn-South-Ridge-West-Summit-to-Main-Summit

ASIE AUSTRALE

Nouvelle Zélande

Darran Mountains, Mt Suter (2,094m)
Ben Dare (NZ)

South face, Elysium, 750m, AI5. Solo, in a day (July).
https://alpineteam.co.nz/2018/new-route-%E2%80%93-south-face-mt-sute

Southern Alps, Mt Percy Smith (2,465m)
Ben Dare (NZ)

Southwest face, The Promise, 700m, WI4 M5+ A0. Solo, in a day (October).
https://alpineteam.co.nz/2018/new-route-%E2%80%93-southwest-face-mt-percy-smith

Southern Alps, Mt Cook (3,764m)
Caleb Jennings-Kim Ladiges (NZ)

South (Sheila) face, Pilgrim, 900m, WI5 M6. In a day (September)
https://alpineteam.co.nz/2018/new-route-sheila-face-aoraki-mount-cook-route-beta

Southern Alps, Mt Cook (3,764m)
Rose Pearson-Sam Waetford (NZ)

South (Sheila) face, Ministry of Silly Walks, 800m, M4 WI4. In a day (September).
https://alpineteam.co.nz/2018/second-new-route-sheila-face-aorakimount-cook

ANTARCTIQUE

Pirrit Hills, Mount Tidd (2,244m)
Antoine Bletton - Sébastien Moatti (France)

North face, Coming in from the Cold, 800m, TD, WI4 M4. In a day (January), and other routes by the GMHM expedition.
http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/wild-french-rock-climbs-in-pirrit-hills-antarctica.html

EUROPE

Norvège

Senja, Breitinden (1,001m)
Greg Boswell (UK) - Jeff Mercier (France)

North face, 600m, ED; Finnkona, northwest face, 400m, M8 WI5+. Seven hard routes in eight days (February)
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/02/senja_new_routing_spree_by_boswell_and_mercier-71491

Lofoten, Stortinden (866m)
Sami Modenius (Finland) - Chris Wright (USA)

North face, Way Out West, 800m, M7 A0 95°. One day (February).
No current link, future AAJ

Gudvangen Region, The Kraken
Phillipe Batoux - Aymeric Clouet - Michel Coranotte (France)

800m, VI/6+ M6. One day (February).
https://pbatoux.wixsite.com/verticaladventure/single-post/2018/02/22/Big-ice-climbs-in-Norway

Alpes

Mont Blanc (4,808m), Miage (northwest) face
Simon Richardson (UK)-Micha Rinn (Germany)

Perfect Storm, 700m, ED1, 6a+. One bivouac on pillar (August), traversed mountain.
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/perfect-storm-big-new-climb-on-mont-blanc-by-simon-richardson-and-michael-rinn.html

Grandes Jorasses (4,208m), east face
Max Bonniot-Pierre Labbre-Manu Romain (France)

Groucho Marx FFA, 700m, ED+, 7b. In a day (June).
http://maxbonniot.blogspot.com/2018/09/groucho-marx-en-libre-fe-des-grandes.html (in French)

Gross Grunhorn (4,044m)
Dani Arnold - Stephen Ruoss (Switzerland)

Northeast face, Exile on Main Street, 600m, M7 6b+ bolted belays. In a day (May).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/grunhorn-direttissima-climbed-by-dani-arnold-and-stephan-ruoss-in-bernese-oberland.html

Cima Brenta, east face (3,150m)
Alessandro Beber - Mateo Faletti (Italy)

CRAM, 550m, 14 pitches, AI5 M6 90°. One bivouac (December).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/cima-brenta-alessandro-beber-matteo-faletti-establish-big-new-dolomites-winter-climb.html

Watzmann (2,713m)
Luka Lindic (Slovenia) - Ines Papert (Germany)

First winter east to west traverse, ca 3,450m of ascent, M5 80°. In a day - car to car (January)
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/watzmann-family-traverse-ines-papert-luka-lindic-make-possible-first-winter-ascent.html

Sagwand (3,227m)
David Lama - Peter Muhlburger (Austria)

Sagzahn Verschneidung, 800m, M6 A2. In a day (February).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/david-lama-climbs-sagzahn-verschneidung-in-valsertal-austria.html

***

Other notable ascents during 2018 that do not quite fit the strict criteria

South America, South Avellano Tower (ca 1,900m)
John Crook-John McCune-Will Sim-Paul Swail (UK)

East face, 900m, E5 6a. One day in January, but after two days spent fixing rope to half height
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214756/Avellano-Towers-South-Avellano-Tower-East-Face

Greenland, Fox Jaw Cirque, Molar
Robert Jasper (Germany)

Southwest face - Stonecircle, 450m (12 pitches plus scrambling), 7c, , solo, with a little fixed rope and 30 bolts.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214908/Molar-Southwest-Face-Stonecircle

Dolomites, Cima Scotoni (2,874m)
Simon Gietl (Italy)

Can you hear me, 550m, 27 pitches, VIII+ A2. Rope solo, completed in June. No bolts but a total of eight days over two years.
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/cima-scotoni-simon-gietl-completes-big-new-dolomites-climb.html

Dolomites, Cima Scotoni (2,874m)
Nicola Tondini, with Lorenzo d'Addario (Italy)

Southwest face, Non Abbiate paura di Sognare, 24 pitches, bolts used only on nine belays, first single push ascent, 8b, 7b+ obl. one bivouac (September).
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/cima-scotoni-nicola-tondini-completes-first-single-push-of-his-dolomites-direttissima.html

Pakistan, Kiris Peak (5,428m)
Massimo Faletti-Maurizio Giordani (Italy)

Northeast face, Waterworld, 600m (1,250m of climbing; 29 pitches), UIAA VIII A2 M3 65°. With fixed ropes on lower wall and a little bolting.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214938/Kiris-Peak-Northeast-Face-WaterWorld-Snow-Peak-West-Southwest-Face

Pakistan, Pathan Peak (ca 6,000m)
Nicolas Favresse (Belgium)-Mathieu Maynadier (France)-Carlitos Molina (Argentina)-Jean-Louis Wertz (Belgium)

Pathan Pillar, 900m, 6b A1. Fixed rope and capsule style.
https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/thagas-valley-nicolas-favresse-reports-of-karakorum-climbing-expedition.html

Greenland, Mythics Cirque, Ataatap Tower (ca 1,350m)
Philippe Batoux-Lionel Daudet-Patrick Wagnon (France)

Northeast face, 1,000m, 7a A2. Capsule style.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214964/Mythics-Cirque-Ataatap-Tower-Northeast-Face-Aurora-Tower-Southeast-Face-and-Northeast-Ridge

Organisateurs et partenaires principaux 2019