Piolets d'Or - 2015 Significant ascents

2015 - Significant ascents

The following is a representative list of significant, innovative ascents during the year that more or less comply with the Piolets d'Or charter. Grades are those quoted by the first ascensionists; in the case of new routes and first free ascents they remain unconfirmed. Note that some web links may not convey a completely true picture of events, but are currently the best available

This preliminary list of major ascents during 2015 was compiled by Lindsay Griffin (American Alpine Journal) and Claude Gardien.

ASIA

 Népal

Gave Ding (6,571m)
Mick Fowler, Paul Ramsden (UK)

First ascent, north buttress, 1,600m, ED+ Scottish VI
Over Summit.
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43199.

Nilgiri South (6,939m)
Hansjorg Auer, Alexander Blumel, Gerhard Fiegl

South face, ca 1,500m M5 90°
Fiegl killed on descent. Over Summit.
http://www.hansjoerg-auer.at/nilgiri-south

Thulagi Chuli (7,059m)
Ivan Dozhdev, Aleksander Gukov, Ruslan Kirichenko, Valery Shamalo (Russia)

First ascent, west face, Happy Birthday, 1,850m, TD+ AI4+ 5c M4
http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=7454

Chobutse (6,686m)
Mingma Gyalje Sherpa (Nepal)

West face, Dorjee Sherpa Route, ca 1,200m
Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, solo, evacuated from summit by helicopter.
http://gripped.com/news/new-big-mountain-routes-climbed-in-nepal/

Chugimago (6,258m)
Luka Strazar-Matej Mucic (Slovenia)

West face, 800m, AI4 M5
http://ka.pzs.si/novica.php?pid=10570

Dzasamptse (6,293m)
Julien Dusserre, Mathieu Détrie, Pierre Labbre, Mathieu Maynadier (France)

Northeast face, A la Verticale de la Peine, 700m, TD+ WI5-
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43187

WestTawache (Taboche, 6,495m)
Skiy De Tray, Justin Griffin (USA)

Northeast pillar, not to summit, ca 1,100m, AI5 M5/6 R,
To top of face, descent by different route, Griffin killed on descent
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15y/newswire-accident-taboche-north-buttress

Ama Dablam (6,856m)
Fleur Fouque, Sébastien Rougegré, Fanny Schmutz, Damien Tomasi (French)

Lagunak (south) ridge, first alpine-style ascent. 1,200m, TD+ F5 AI5 M4 90°
Over Summit
http://www.escalade.pro/news/en/ama-dablam-nepal-style-alpin-lagunak-ridge

Talung (7,439m)
Nikita Balabanov, Mikhail Formin (Ukraine)

North-northwest spur, Daddy Magnum Force, 1,700m, ED2 AI6 M6 A3
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15y/newswire-ukrainian-climbers-score-major-route-mt-talung

India

Ri Pok Te (6,210m)
Anastasija Davidova, Matic Jost (Slovenia)

East face and southwest ridge, From East to West, 1,000m TD+/ED1 VI-
And other routes
http://raru2015.blogspot.co.uk/2015/10/summary-slovenian-alpinists-anastasija.html

Turpendeo (5,700m)
Andreas Abegglen, Thomas Senf, Stephan Siegrist (Switzerland)

First ascent, southeast pillar, Deokhal, 800m 6a/b
http://stephan-siegrist.ch/en/kashmir.2015

Cerro Kishtwar (6,173m)
Hayden Kennedy, Urban Novak, Manu Pellissier, Marko Prezelj (USA-Slovenia-France)

East face, Light before Wisdom, 1,200m, ED+ 5.11 WI6 M6 A2
https://kishtwar2015eng.wordpress.com

Pakistan

First Link Sar West (6,938m)
Jon Griffith, Andy Houseman (UK)

Northwest face, Fever Pitch, ca 1,400m M4
Over Summit.
http://alpineexposures.com/expeditions/first-ascent-of-link-sar-west---fever-pitch

K6 West (7,040m)
Scott Bennett, Graham Zimmerman (USA)

Southwest ridge, 1,800m, M6 90° ice
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15x/newswire-new-routes-in-karakoram

Dream Walker Peak (5,809m)
Maciej Bedrejczuk, Maciej Janczar, Tomasz Klimczak, Marcin Wernik (Poland)

North face, Rolling (D)ice, ca 1,450m, ED1/2 AI5 80° M5, 
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15y/newswire-polish-team-authors-new-routes-tagas-mountains

Changi Tower (ca 6,500m)
Scott Bennett, Steve Swenson, Graham Zimmerman (USA)

First ascent, north ridge, 600m, M6 5.10 A2
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15x/newswire-new-routes-in-karakoram

China

Mt. Chu - San Lian Southeast (ca 6,250m)
Marcin Rutkowski, Wojtek Ryczer, Rafał Zając (Poland)

First ascent, east face, Hard Camping, ca 1,000m, ED2 M7 WI5 R
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15y/newswire-cramped-bivies-maze-like-glaciers-san-lian-east

Kyrgyzstan

Sedoy Strazh (Byeliy East, 5,481m)
Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev, Sergey Nilov (Russia)

First ascent, northeast face, Devjaty Val, 1,230m 6B
Over Summit. Awarded Russian Piolet d'Or.
http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=7483

Panfilovski Division East (ca 5,300m)
Ben Erdmann, Sam Johnson (USA)

East face, Flight of the Zephyr, 600m, AI4 R M7
http://www.climbing.com/news/blind-date-leads-to-new-route-on-kyrgyz-peak/

Pik Panfilovski Division
Miha Hauptman, Uros Stanonik (Slovenia)

Northwest face, White Walker, 900m, AI5 M6
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43168

Pik Carnovsky
Anze Jerze, Miha Hauptman, Uros Stanonik (Slovenia)

West face, Mr Mojo Risin, 500m, AI5+ M5 R X
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43168

Russia

Mamison (4,319m)
Dmitry Romanenko, Vladimir Roshko (Ukraine)

North face, centre of Triangle (winter), 820m 6A
http://www.risk.ru/blog/206474

Bilibino, Commander
Hansjorg Auer, Jacopo Lacher, Siebe Vanhee (Austria-Italy-Belgium)

North face, Red Corner, 450m 7c+
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/multinational-team-climbs-hard-and-free-in-the-bilibino

Madagascar

Tsaranoro Atsimo
Siebe Vanhee, Sean Villanueva (Belgium)

Fire in the Belly, 700m 8a+
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43076

Karambony
Hassan Gerami, Hamid Resa Shafagi, Farshad Mijoji (Iran)

The Change Experience, 442m 8b A2 (two pitches)
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42838

NORTH AMERICA

Canada

Malaspina (3,776m)
Natalia Martinez, Camilo Rada (Argentina-Chile)

First ascent, north flank and east ridge, 1,900m, TD AI2, 55-65°.
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/argentinianchilean-duo-summit-north-americas-highest-unclimbed-named-mountain

Great Cross Pillar (ca 1,690m)
David Allfrey, Cheyne Lempe (USA)

South face, Deconstructing Jenga, 900m, 5.9+ A3+
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15s/newswire-new-route-in-sam-ford-fjord-baffin-island

Waddington, northwest summit (4,000m)
Paul McSorley, Ines Papert, Mayan Smith-Gobat (Canada-Germany-New Zealand)

Southwest buttress, 800m, ED1 5.11+ WI3 M5
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15y/wfeature-international-team-completes-mt-waddington-project

Snowpatch Spire (3,084m)
Will Stanhope with Matt Segal (Canada)

East face, Tom Egan Memorial Route, FFA, 500m, 13 pitches, V 5.14
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15x/newswire-will-stanhope-tom-egan-bugaboos

Alaska

Devil's Paw (2,616m)
Simon Gietl, Roger Schaeli (Italy-Switzerland)

North summit, first ascent via northwest ridge, Black Roses, 1,000m, 6c A1 M4
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/gietl-and-schaeli-climb-devils-paw-north-summit

Deborah (3,760m)
Jon Griffith, Will Sim (UK)

Northwest face and northwest ridge, Bad to the Bone, 2,000m
http://alpineexposures.com/expeditions/alaska-2015-nw-face-of-mt-deborah

North Triple Peak (2,560m)
Tim Blakemore, Mike "Twid" Turner (UK)

Northwest face, No Country for Old Men, 800m, ED AI6
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/blakemore-and-turner-climb-no-country-for-old-men-in-alaska

Citadel (1,988m)
Jon Bracey, Matt Heliiker (UK)

Northwest ridge
http://www.mountainpromag.com/?p=382

Jezebel, east summit (ca 2,870m)
Pete Graham, Ben Silvestre (UK)

First ascent, east face, Hoar of Babylon 1,200m, VI WI6 M6 A0
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/how-to-climb-a-new-route-in-alaska

GREENLAND

Mirror Wall (ca 2,050m)
Waldo Etherington, Leo Houlding, Joe Möhle, Matt Pickles, Matt Pycroft (UK-S Africa)

Northwest face, ca 1,200m, E6 6b (5.12b) A3+
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/leo-houlding-mirror-wall

Ulamertorsuaq, Piteraq
Silvan Schupbach, Bernadette Zak (Switzerland)

Almost free ascent, 28 pitches, 7c R X with a three-metre pendulum
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42997

SOUTH AMERICA

Bolivia

Illimani (6,438m)
Thomas Arfi, Manu Chance (France)

South Face, Por la Vida, 1,200m WI5+
Over Summit
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213501/Illimani-South-Face-Partial-New-Route

Condoriri Traverse
Juvenal Condori, Sergio Condori (Bolivia)

Nine summits, 14km to 5,648m, ED2 6a AI5+ M4
AAJ report only

Argentina - Chile

Cerro Riso Patron Central (ca 2,550m)
Lise Billon, Antoine Moineville, Jérôme Sullivan, Diego Simari (France-Argentina)

East face, Hasta las Webas, 1,000m, ED- WI5+ M5
http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/risopatron.html

Reverse Torre Traverse (max 3,100m)
Colin Haley, Marc Andre Leclerc (USA-Canada)

Cerro Torre-Egger-Heron-Standhardt, Travesia del Oso Buda, 1,200m M6 6a+ C1
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213173/Cerro-Torre-group-La-Travesa-del-Oso-Buda

Cerro Adela Norte
Dani Ascaso, Lise Billon, Santiago Padros, Jérôme Sullivan (Spain-France)

East face, not to summit, Balas y Chocolate, 900m, ED+ WI5+ A2 M6+ X
Different descent.
http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/adelagroup/adelacentral/balas.html

EUROPE

Norway

Trolltind (1,788m)
Marek Raganowicz, Marcin Tomaszewski (Poland)

Trollveggen, Katharsis, winter, ca 1,150m, VI A4 M7
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42502

Alps

Schneefernerkopf (2,875m)
Joachim Feger, Michael Wohileben (Germany)

West face, Optimist, 1,300m M6
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42526#

Eiger, north face (exit ca 3,700m)
Simon Gietl, Robert Jasper, Roger Schali (Italian-German-Swiss)

Odyssee, 1,400m, 33 pitches, Redpoint 8a+
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43082#

Classic Six North Faces
Tom Ballard (UK)

All solo and in one winter
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/tom-ballard-climbs

Qualido (2,707m)
Paolo Marazzi, Luca Schiera, Matteo de Zaiacomo (Italy)

East face, King of the Bongo, ca 800m, 18 pitches, 7c+ (no bolts)
http://ragnilecco.com/king-bongo/

Chugimago (6,258m)
Patrick Gabarrou and various partners over 13 years finishing with Pierre Gourdin (France)

Matterhorn (4,478m), south face, Padre Pio, échelle vers le ciel, 1,300m, 7a
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15y/wfeature-a-stairway-to-heaven-matterhorn

Aiguille du Fou (3,501m)
Fabien Dugit, Cédric Lachat (France)

South face, Ballade au Clair de Lune, FFA at 8b
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/balade-au-clair-de-lune-on-the-south-face-of-the-fou-climbed-free

Pic Sans Nom (3,913m, Ecrins Massif)
Benjamin Brochard, Fred Degoulet, Jonathan Joly (France)

North face, Le Prestige des Ecrins, 1,000m, M6+ 6a
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43155

Ailefroide Orientale (3,847m)
Alexandre Michel, Stefano Morino-Pierre Sauget (France)

North face, Winter is Coming, 700m, 550m new, F5 M5+ 80°
http://sommets.info/nouvelle-voie-en-face-nord-de-lailefroide-orientale/

Dolomites

Torre Venezia (2,337m)
Nicolas Tondini, Emanuele Pellizzari (Italy)

South face, FWA of Rondo Veneziano, 470m, IX-
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43357

Condoriri Traverse
Martin Dejori, Marta Mozzati, Titus Prinoth, Giorgio Travaglia-Alex Walpoth (Italy)

Civetta (3,220m), northwest face, Via Degli Studenti, 1,000m, VIII- A0
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42976#

Organisateurs et partenaires principaux 2017