Piolets d'Or - GASHERBRUM I (8,068m - Pakistan)

GASHERBRUM I (8,068m - Pakistan)

(1) Russian, 2008
(2) Satisfaction!, 2017
(3) Polish, 1983
(4) Spanish, 1983

Complete southwest face, Satisfaction!, 2,600m, ED+ WI5+ M7.
July 25 - August 1 round trip from base camp.

Satisfaction by Zdeněk Hák and Marek Holeček from the Czech Republic is probably the last logical line on the huge west face of Gasherbrum I. It is the first full ascent of the face, and completes a direct line to the summit first attempted back in 1983 by Jerzy Kukuczka and Voytek Kurtyka. Holeček had made four previous attempts on this line, in the process losing one climbing partner and parts of several toes. The successful ascent, beginning on July 25, took six days, with the last bivouac at 8,000m.

The final rock band above 7,800m had presented such a high order of technical climbing that it took a full 12 hours to complete just 80m. The descent from the summit, via the Normal Route along the Japanese Couloir, was first through a white inferno, then down avalanche prone slopes. They returned to base camp eight days after leaving.

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