Piolets d'Or - Ascensions marquantes 2019

Ascensions marquantes 2019

The following is a representative list of significant, innovative ascents in most mountain regions of the World, climbed during 2019, in alpine style, and without using drilled equipment. This is not a list of nominated ascents for the Piolets d'Or and should not be confused with such: it is a selection of routes that are noteworthy within their particularly regions. Grades are those quoted by the first ascensionists and remain unconfirmed. The number of bivouacs noted is for the ascent only. Some web links may not convey a completely true picture of events, but are currently the best available.

This preliminary list of significant first ascents during 2019 was compiled by Lindsay Griffin (Senior Editor, American Alpine Journal), with help from Dougald MacDonald (Editor in Chief, American Alpine Journal) and Rodolphe Popier (Club Alpin Francais)




Gangotri, Bhagirathi IV (6,193m)
Matteo della Bordella-Luca Schiera-Matteo de Zaiacomo (Italy)

West face, Cavalli Bardati, 800m 7b, two points of aid (A0). In a day (September).

Kinnaur, Midi d'Ossau (4,670m)
Eneko Pou-Iker Pou (Spain)

The Latin Brother, 560m, 7c+. In a day (September).

Himachal Pradesh, Menthosa (6,443m)
Spencer Gray-Rushad Nanavatty (USA)

First ascent of south ridge, 1,350m, ED2 WI4 M6. Four bivouacs (August)

Zanskar, Chareze Ri North (5,959m)
Davide Limongi-Federico Martinelli-Enrico Mosetti-Federico Secchi-Luca Valleta (Italy)

First ascent via east-northeast ridge, Jullay Temù, 1,000m, V+ 70°. One bivouac (August).


Mahalangur Himal, Chamlang, (Point 7,240m)
Nicolas Jean - Benjamin Védrines (France)

Northeast couloir, ca 1,500m, M3/M4 65°. One bivouac (October).

Mahalangur Himal, Chamlang (7,321m)
Marek Holeček - Zdeněk Hák (Czech Republic)

Northwest face, UFO Line, 2,500m, WI5 M6. Four bivouacs (May)

Rolwaling Himal, Chhopa Bamare (6,109m)
Benjamin Billet (France) - John Kelley(USA)

First ascent via southeast face and south ridge, Seto Hi'um, 1,100m, TD, M4 WI4. Five bivouacs (February)

Mahalangur Himal, Lobuche East (6,090m)
Anna Pfaff - Sammy Podhurst (USA)

Southwest face, possible partial new route, 1,100m. One bivouac, (October).

Mahalangur Himal, Peak (6,065m)
Ana Gracia-Rubén - Gómez Perez - Ángel Luis Salamanca (Spain)

Northeast couloir and northwest ridge, to 10m below summit, 650m, 6a M4 80°. In a day (May).

Kumbhakarna Himal, Jannu (7,710m)
Dmitry Golovchenko - Sergey Nilov (Russia)

First ascent of east face to southeast ridge (not to summit), Unfinished Symphony, ca 2,500m, ED, 80+°. 12 bivouacs (March)

Rolwaling Himal, Tengi Ragi Tau (6,938m)
Alan Rousseau - Tino Villanueva (USA)

West face, Release the Kraken, 1,600m, AI5 M5+. Three bivouacs (October)

Rolwaling Himal, Tengi Ragi Tau, north summit (ca 6,820m)
Silvan Schupbach (Switzerland) - Symon Welfringer

West face, Trinité, 1,500m, AI5 M6. Two bivouacs (October).

Mahalangur Himal, Kyajo Ri (6,186m)
Ivan Osipoy - Dmitry Rybalchenko - Vitaly Shipilov - Andrey Vasiliev (Russia)

West face, The Way of the Dragon, 950m, ED2 5c A3+ Mixed. Six bivouacs (October)
https://www.naiz.eus/en/hemeroteca/gara/editions/2019-12-30/hemeroteca_articles/laukote-errusiar-batek-kyajo-rin-dragoiaren-arrastoa-utzi-du [Spanish Basque]

Manaslu Himal, Panpoche I (6,620m)
Archil Badriashvili - Baqar Gelashvili - Giorgi Tepnadze (Georgia)

First ascent via north ridge, 2,300m from base camp, ED, 70°, three bivouacs (October); Panpoche II (6,504m), first ascent via southwest ridge and south face, 2,600m from base camp, ED 80°, two bivouacs (September)


Bogda Ola Massif, Bogda V (5,216m)
Dili Xiati - Kang Hua - Li Zongli (China)

Northwest face, 1,300m, TD+, AI3+ 5.10+ M5 75°. One bivouac (August).

Daxue Shan, Mt Grosvenor (6,376m)
Pierrick Fine - Etienne Journet - Jordi Noguere (France)

West face, Tcheu c'te Panthère, 1,300m, ED, AI6. One bivouac (October).
https://alpinemag.fr/sur-les-traces-de-la-panthere-chinoise/ [French]

Tatsienlu Massif, Lamo-she (6,070m)
Tomas Franchini (Italy)

First ascent via southeast face and northeast ridge, Wild Blood, 1,500m, WI5 M5+ V 90°. In a day (May)


Western Kokshaal-too, Chon-turasu (5,728m)
Kirill Belotserkovskiy - Max Ten (Kazakhstan)

North face. Three bivouacs (August)

Karavshin, Kotina (4,521m)
Evgeny Corulin - Vasily Terekhin (Russia)

West face and southwest face, Krasnoyarsk Route, 1,200m, but 1,800m of climbing, 5B, 7a. In a day (July).

Karavshin, Kotina (4,521m)
Gebhard Bendler - Christoph Schranz (Austria)

West face and southwest face, Krukonogi, 1,200m but almost 2,000m of climbing, 7a+. In a day (July).

Surmetash Valley, Sauk Dzhaylyau Central (5,227m)
Anton Kashevnik - Alexey Tyulyupo (Russia)

Northeast face, 1,377m but 1,750m of climbing, 6A, ED, WI5 M5. Two bivouacs (September).


Buryatia, South Muya Ridge, Mechta (Dream Peak, 2,590m)
Evgeny Glazunov - Nadezhda Oleneva - Pavel Tkachenko (Russia)

West face, 800m, 5B-6A, 7a with a little aid. In a day (July).


Baltoro Muztagh, Black Tooth (6,719m)
Simon Messner (Italy) - Martin Sieberer (Austria)

first ascent, east ridge and traverse, WI5+ M5. Two bivouacs (July).

Ghujerab Mountains, Chashkin I (6,035m)
Tico Gangulee (USA)

First ascent via southwest ridge, Steeze Matters 900m, ED, 5.11c M4+ 85°. In a day (June).

Baltoro Muztagh, Gasherbrum II (8,034m)
Denis Urubko (Russia-Poland)

Southwest face, Honeymoon 1,935m, TD WI3 M6. Over two days - no bivouac (August)

Rakaposhi Range, Rakaposhi (7,788m)
Kazuya Hiraide - Kenro Nakajima (Japan)

South face and southeast ridge, 4,000m from base camp. Six bivouacs (July).

Saltoro Group, Sherpi Kangri II (ca 7,000m)
Matt Cornell - Jackson Marvel - Kurt Ross (USA)

Southeast ridge, 1,100m on final pyramid, AI4. One bivouac on final pyramid (August).

Hindu Raj, Koyo Zom (6,877m)
Tom Livingstone - Ally Swinton (UK)

Northwest face, The Great Game, 1,500m, ED+. Four bivouacs (September). Rescue on descent.

Hindu Raj, Risht Peak (5,950m)
Pierrick Fine - Antoine Rolle - Aurélien Vaissière - Symon Welfringer (France)

North face, Sur la route de l'école, 500m, WI5 M6. In a day (May)

Masherbrum Range, Link Sar (7,041m)
Mark Richey-Steve Swenson-Chris Wright-Graham Zimmerman (USA

First ascent via southeast face, 2,300m, AI4 M6+ 90°. Five bivouacs (August)

Gasherbrum VII (6,955m)
Carlo Cimenti (with Francesco Cassardo to 6,800m)

First ascent (and ski descent) via the northeast face, ca 700m, D+, 60°. In a day (July).



Central Alaska Range, Mt Dickey (2,909m)
Jackson Marvel - Alan Rousseau (USA)

East face, Ruth Gorge Grinder, 1,500m, AI6+ M7 A1. Two bivouacs (April)

Revelation Mountains, Apocalypse North (2,750m)
Janez Svoljšak - Miha Župin (Slovenia)

First ascent via northwest face - Slovenian Route, 1,300m, AI4+ M6 R 85°, traversed mountain. In a day (April)


Coast Mountains, Pacific Ranges, Mt Waddington (4,019m)
Simon Richardson (UK) - Ian Welsted (Canada)

West to east traverse including the first ascent of the complete west-northwest ridge, 12km. Four bivouacs (August)

Canadian Rockies, Mount Fay (3,235m)
Brette Harrington (USA) - Luka Lindič (Slovenia) - Ines Papert (Germany)

First direct ascent of the east face, Sound of Silence, 1,100m, WI5 M8. One bivouac (April)

Canadian Rockies, Howse Peak (3,295m)
Hansjörg Auer (Austria) - David Lama (Austria) - Jess Roskelley (USA)

East face, 1,345m, WI6 (+?). All three climbers died on the descent. In a day (April)

Canadian Rockies, Storm Mountain (3,158m)
Ethan Berman (USA)- Maarten van Hearen (Canada)

Northeast face, Eye of the Storm, 700m, WI5 M6. In a day (October)



Cordillera Vilcabamba, Salcantay (6,271m)
Oriol Baró - Ferran Rodríguez - Guillem Sancho (Spain)

Southeast face, Manjar Rubio, 1,250m, ED. In a day (June).

Cordillera Vilcanota, Jatunhuma South (6,070m)
Oriol Baró - Ferran Rodríguez - Guillem Sancho (Spain)

South face, Adrenaline, 900m, ED+. ). In a day (June).

Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Norte (6,360m)
Radoslav Groh - Marek Holeček (Czech Republic)

East face, Boys 1970, 1,200m, ED+ WI6 M6, partially new route and different conditions. Two bivouacs (August)

Cordillera Huayhuash, Siula Grande (6,368m)
Benjamin Billet (France) - Luis Crispin (Peru)-Nathan Heald (USA) - Arttu Pylkkanen (Finland) - Thomas Schilter (Peru)

South face, Peruana Supreme, 1,000m, TD, AI4. In a day (June)



Cape Farewell, Torssukatak Fjord, Peak (1,303m)
Rune Harejo Jensen (Norway) - Charlie Long (Canada) - Andreas Widlund (Sweden)

East-northeast pillar, Ægir, 600m of climbing, 5.11c C1, seconded at 5.12b. In a day (August)


Sunndalen, Snovasskjerdingan Centraltind (1,520m)
Jan Kuczera - Wadim Jabłoński - Kacper Tekieli (Poland)

Southwest face, Tordenruta, 450m, M7 WI3 R. In a day (February).

Lofoten, Moskenesøy, Stamprevtiden South (748m)
Bernat Bilarrassa - Gerber Cucurell - Jordi Esteve (Spain)

East face, The Human Timeline, 600m, 7/7+. in a day (May).

Alps & Dolomites

Vanoise, Pointe Orientale de l'Epena (3,348m)
Léo Billon - Julien Ravanello - Benjamin Védrines (France)

Northwest spur, 765m (summer TD 5c), First winter ascent. In a day (February)

Ecrins, Rateau West Summit (3,769m)
Mathieu Détrie - Octave Garbolino (France)

North face, Bonne Pioche, 500m, ED, M6 6a A1. In a day (February)
Second ascent with direct finish, M7 6a, Sébastien Ratel - Benjamin Védrines (France). In a day (March).
http://maxbonniot.blogspot.com/2018/09/groucho-marx-en-libre-fe-des-grandes.html (in French)

Mont Blanc Range, Aiguille de l'Amone (3,584m)
Simon Chatelan - Silvan Schupbach (Switzerland)

East face, L'accidentelle et l'accidenté, 850m, M7. One bivouac (February).

Bregaglia, Piz Badile (3,305m)
David Hefti - Marcus Schenk (Switzerland)

Northeast face, Nardella Route, first free ascent, 900m, 7b+ 7a R. Two ancient belay bolts replaced, one bivouac (September).

Punta Civetta (2,920m)
Davide Cassol - Luca Vallata (Italy)

Northwest face, Capitani di Ventura, 700m, VIII- A1. Over four separate days - one day on final ascent (September)

Sassolungo (3,181m)
Aaron Moroder - Titus Prinoth (Italy)

North face, Parole Sante, 1,050m (650m of new ground), VIII A1. After a previous attempt with Matteo Vinatzer, one day (July)

Sass dla Crusc (2,907m)
Manuel Baumgartner - Simon Messner (Italy)

Northwest face, Rapunzel, long snow face followed by four steep pitches (120m), M8 WI6+. In a day (December).

Organisateurs 2023