This is a representative list of significant, innovative ascents from most mountain regions of the World. It is not a list of “nominated” ascents for the Piolets d'Or and should not be confused with such: it is a selection of ascents that are classed as noteworthy and adventurous within their particularly régions, involving new routes that were completed more or less in continuous alpine style. Grades quoted by the first ascensionists remain unconfirmed.
This preliminary list of significant first ascents during 2023 was compiled by Lindsay Griffin (Senior Editor, American Alpine Journal), with help from Dougald MacDonald (Editor in Chief, American Alpine Journal) and Rodolphe Popier (Club Alpin Français).
ASIA
Pakistan
- Tirich Mir (7,708m)
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First ascent of The Secret Line (2,200m) on the north face of Tirich Mir (7,708m) in the Hindu Kush, from July 17-23, by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima (Japan). Approached over a high col leaving four ropes fixed and then traversed the mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216815
- Ghamubar Zom V (6,400m)
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First ascent of Ghamubar Zom V (6,400m) in the Hindu Raj via the northwest ridge (2,000m, 5.9 M5 90°), from September 16-19, by Kei Narita, Yuu Nishida, and Yudai Suzuki (Japan). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216814
- Baintha Kabata (6,290m)
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First ascent of The Alien Face (800m, 7a M5) – southwest face to south ridge - on Baintha Kabata (6,290m) in the Panmah Muztagh, from July 26-27, by Mateo Della Bordella (Italy), Silvan Schüpbach (Switzerland), and Symon Welfringer (France). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216760
- Kharut II (6,824m)
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First ascent of Kharut II (6,824m) in the Baltoro Muztagh via the west-northwest ridge (1,200m), on July 18, by Koldo Zubimendi (Basque Country), solo. Descended route..
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216826
- Yernamandu Kangri (7,163m)
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First ascent of Yernamandu Kangri (7,163m) in the Masherbrum Range by the southwest face (3,000m, 70°), from July 13-15, by Simon Messner (Italy) and Martin Sieberer (Austria). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216827
- Drifika (6,447m)
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First ascent of the south face and southwest spur of Drifika (6,447m) in the Tagas Mountains, and then ski descent (ca 1,300m), during one day in May by Giovanni Zaccaria (Italy).
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216828
- Kapura Main (6,544m)
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A new line up the west face (1,500m, M5) of Kapura Main (6,544m) in the Tagas Mountains, stopping on the summit ridge northwest of the highest point after two bivouacs, in August, by Jakub Kácha and Martin Sankot (Czech Republic). Rappelled route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216829
India
- White Sapphire (6,040m)
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First ascent of Brilliant Blue (850m, AI3 M7+ 80°) on White Sapphire (6,040m) in the Kishtwar Himalaya, from October 5-7, by Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko, and Hayden Wyatt (USA). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216837
- Flat Top (6,100m)
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First ascent of Tomorrow Is Another Day (1,400m, ED, 5c A2 WI4 M6) on the north face of Flat Top (6,100m) in the Kishtwar Himalaya, from October 2-7, by Hugo Béguin, Matthias Gribi, and Nathan Monard (Switzerland). Traversed mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216845
- Amaiur Peak (5,760m)
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First ascent of Amaiur Peak (5,760m) via the northeast ridge (750m, V+ M6), on July 16, by Joseba Iztueta and Ekaitz Maiz (Basque Country). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216830
- Jamyang Ri (5,800m)
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First ascent of Nelim Lam (700+m of climbing, 5.12 A0) on the west face and northwest arete of Jamyang Ri (5,800m), Ladakh, on July 21, by Moritz Sigmund and Patrick Tirler (Italy). Descended different line on same face.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216841
- Neverseen Tower (5,750m)
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First ascent of Wind of Silence (500m, 6b+) on the south-southeast face of Neverseen Tower (5,750m), Himachal Pradesh, on September 20 and 21, by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jerome Perruquet, and Francesco Ratti (Italy). Descended route. A few ropes fixed on first day.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216852
- Meru South, Central Top (ca 6,600m)
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First ascent of Goldfish (M6+ A1) on the southeast face of Meru South, Central Top (ca 6,600m), Western Garhwal, from May 10-13, by Simon Gietl (Italy), Mathieu Maynadier (France), and Roger Schäli (Switzerland). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216816
Nepal
- Surma Sarovar (6,605m GPS)
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First ascent of Surma Sarovar (6,605m GPS) via northwest face (2,000m), from October 23-26, by Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden (UK). Traversed mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216810
- Dragpoche (6,575m)
First ascent of Dragpoche (6,575m), Langtang Himal, via Between Faries and Unicorns (1,100m, ED, M4+ WI5) on the southeast face, from October 28-29, by Oswaldo Freire and Joshua Jarrin (Ecuador). Descended route.
Possible new line on the northwest face of Ganchempo (6,375m), Jugal Himal — Cold Therapy (700m, AI4+) — on November 3 by Oswaldo Freire and Joshua Jarrin (Ecuador). Descended route.BOTH OF THE ABOVE ROUTES
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216706
- Goldum (6,623m)
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First known ascent of Goldum (6,623m), Langtang Himal, via the north-northeast ridge (85°), from April 10-11, after previously establishing a high camp, by Jeong Il-hoon, Park Jong-young, and Son Ho-seong (Korea).
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216831
- Rolwaling Kang Shar (6,645m)
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First ascent of Rolwaling Kang Shar (6,645m), Rolwaling Himal, via the southeast ridge (1,800m of climbing, 5/5+ M5), from October 19-23, by Yury Koshelenko and Aleksei Lonchinsky (Russia). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216818
- Tengi Ragi Tau subsummit (6,772m)
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First ascent of Honzova Cesta (1,300m, M5 80°) on the west face of a Tengi Ragi Tau subsummit (6,772m), Rolwaling Himal, from October 29-30, by Marek Disman and Jakub Vlček (Czech Republic). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216833
- Chobutse (6,686m)
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First ascent of Just Breathe (1,600m, M5 WI4 R/X) on the northeast pillar of Chobutse (6,686m), Rolwaling Himal, from October 14-16, by Wadim Jabłoński et Maciej Kimel (Poland). Traversed mountain.
- Kabru South (7,318m)
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First ascent of Diamonds on the Soles of the Shoes (2,800m, D+ 60°) on the west face of Kabru South (7,318m), Kangchenjunga Himal, from May 9-12, by Romano Benet and Nives Meroi (Italy), Peter Hámor (Slovakia), and Bojan Jan (Slovenia). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216822
- Cholatse (6,423m)
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First ascent of Just One Solution (1,200m, ED, M5 WI4+) on the west face of Cholatse (6,423m), Mahalangur Himal – Khumbu, from November 2-3, by Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák (Czech Republic). Traversed mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216834
- Hongku (6,764m)
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First ascent of Simply Beautiful (900m, M6 90°) on the west face of Hongku (6,764m), Mahalangur Himal – Barun, from May 20-23, by Matěj Bernát and Marek Holeček (Czech Republic). Traversed mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216821
- Jannu (7,710m)
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First ascent of Round Trip Ticket (2,700m, M7 AI5+ A0), a partial new route on the north face and northwest ridge of Jannu (7,710m), Kangchenjunga Himal, from October 7-12, by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau (USA). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216853
China – Tibet
- Loinbo Kangri (7,095m)
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First ascent of the south face (1,300m, WI3 M4 70°) of Loinbo Kangri (7,095m), Gangdise Shan, from September 13-14, by Liu Junfu and Zhou Song (China). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216800
China
- Peak 5,800 Meters (5,800m)
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First ascent of Peak 5,800m in the Minya Konka Range, Daxue Shan, via The Pot Carrier (900m, TD, 5.8 M6) on the west face, from August 8-9, by He Lang, Liu Yang, and Song Yuancheng (China). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216803
- Jiazi (6,540m)
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First ascent of Rebirth (1,400m, TD+ AI4 M6 70°) on the west face of Jiazi (6,540m), Minya Konka Range, Daxue Shan, from November 1-2, by Tong Zhanghao and Wang Yongpeng (China). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216819
- Yipingfeng (5,800m) and Erpingfeng (5,880m)
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First ascents and north to south traverse of Yipingfeng (5,800m) and Erpingfeng (5,880m) in the Tatsienlu Massif via One Last Piece of the Puzzle (1,300m ascent, TD+, 5.9 R AI3 55° snow), from October 2-4, by He Lang, Liu Yang, and Xia Pei (China).
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216836
Georgia
- Gulba (3,725m)
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First ascent of Amaia eta Iker (ca 650m, 7b) on the southwest face of Gulba (3,725m), Caucasus, on July 6, by Julen Berrueko, Jon Inoriza, and Tasio Martin (Basque Country). Traversed mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216617
Russia
- Muisky Giant, south summit (3,040m)
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First ascent of Muisky Giant, south summit (3,040m), South Muya Range, Siberia, via Team of our Youth (1,300m, 24 pitches, 6A, 7a) on the southwest face and south-southwest ridge, from August 8-9, by Evgeny Glazunov, Ivan Shilnikov, and Pavel Tkachenko (Russia).
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216730
- Pik 100th Anniversary of Russian Alpinism (2,112m)
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First ascent of Pik 100th Anniversary of Russian Alpinism (2,112m), Great Rapids Ridge, Siberia, via the south face (800m of climbing, 16 pitches, 6A), on August 31, by Ivan Kergin, Konstantin Bobrinsky, and Artyom Chikin (Russia). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216847
Kyrgyzstan-China
- Pik Ulun (5,588m)
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The first ascent of Crack of Doom (760m, 6A, 6b A3 WI3 M6) on the south face of Pik Ulun (5,588m) in the Western Kokshaal-too, from August 23-28, by Olga Lukashenko, Evgeny Murin, and Ilya Penyaev (Russia). One day previously, Oksana Kochubey, Andrey Panov, Sergey Seryanov, and Ilya Zhdanov (Russia) had made the first ascent of Pik Ulun via a route on the south face and southwest ridge at 5B, 6a A2+ WI4 M6 (August 23-27). Both teams traversed the mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216813
- Voennyh Topografov (6,873m)
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First ascent of The Lost World (1,925m, 6B 6c A4 M4) on the southwest face of Voennyh Topografov (6,873m), Tien Shan, from August 2-7, by Ratmir Mukhametzyanov, Alexander Parfyonov, and Aleksei Sukharev (Russia). Traversed mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216824
Kyrgyzstan
- Pik Alpinist (5,482m)
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First ascent of Trophy Hunt (1,100m, WI5+ M5) on the northeast face of Pik Alpinist (5,482m) in the Western Kokshaal-too, on September 24, by Dane Steadman, Seth Timpano, and Jared Vilhauer (USA). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216615
- Pik Breeze (4,431m)
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First ascent of Pik Breeze (4,431m) in the Pamir Alai via the west face (720m, 16 pitches, 6A/6B, free and aid), from July 24-25, by Marina Popova and Denis Prokofiev (Russia). Traversed mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216835
NORTH AMERICA
Greenland
- Oqatssut Wall
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First ascent of Fram (700m of climbing, M5 A3 C1, capsule style) on the southwest face of Oqatssut Wall, Qaqugdlugssuit peninsula, from February 10-19, by Paweł Hałdaś and Marcin Tomaszewski (Poland). Descended route. First Greenland big wall in winter.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216731
- Mythics Cirque
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First complete traverse of the Mythics Cirque, Kangertitivatsiaq Fjord, via Circus Maximus (16 summits up to 1,451m, around half new, 6c), from August 1-3, by Felix Bub and Martin Feistl (Germany).
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216719
- Ataatup Tower (ca 1,350m)
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First ascent of The Mental Breakdown (565m of climbing, 7b/7b+ R) on the northeast face of Ataatup Tower (ca 1,350m), Kangertitivatsiaq Fjord, from August 17-18, by Michelle Dvorak (USA), Martin Feistl (Germany), and Fay Manners (UK). Traversed mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216718
USA - Alaska
- Augustin Peak (2,621m)
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First ascent of the north buttress (1,400m, Alaskan 5 AI4) of Augustin Peak (2,621m) in the Kichatna Mountains, on April 20, by Nelson Neirinck, Kurt Ross, and Michael Telstad (USA). Traversed mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216715
- Rise and Shine (ca 2,400m) / Citadel (2,597m)
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First ascent of Rise and Shine (ca 2,400m), Kichatna Mountains, via Superfly Couloir (500m, AI5 M6 A2) on the east face, on April 20, by Joseph Hobby and Zach Lovell (USA). First ascent of the northwest face of the Citadel (2,597m), Kichatna Mountains, via Borealis Face (800m, 85°), on April 19, by Joseph Hobby and Zach Lovell (USA).
BOTH OF THE ABOVE ROUTES:
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216481
- Cemetery Spire (2,316m)
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First ascent of the southwest face of Cemetery Spire (2,316m), Kichatna Mountains, via Gold Rush (600m, 5.12a A1+), from June 4-5, by Silvia Loreggian and Stefano Ragazzo (Italy). Some bolts placed for anchors on the descent.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216724
- Mount Huntington (3,731m)
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First ascent of Technicolour Superdream (1,300m, 700m of new ground, VI AI5+ M6+ A2) on the west face of Mount Huntington (3,731m), Central Alaska Range, from April 19-21, by Zach Colbran and Grant Stewart (Canada), and Dane Steadman (USA). Descended same face.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216621
- Mount Dickey (2,909m)
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First ascent of Aim for the Bushes (1,525m, AI6 X M6) on the east face of Mount Dickey (2,909m), from March 31-April 2, by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, Alan Rousseau (USA).
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216844
- Abercrombie Mountain (2,145m)
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First ascent of Moonlight Mile (1,610m, AI4 M4) on the southwest face of Abercrombie Mountain (2,145m) in the Chugach Mountains, on April 1, by August Franzen and Simon Frez-Albrecht (USA). Traversed Mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216729
Lower 48
- Mount Morrison (3,731m)
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First ascent of Troll Toll (600m, 16 pitches, WI3 M5/6) on the northeast face of Mount Morrison (3,731m) in the Sierra Nevada, on April 14-15, by Jack Cramer, Tad McCrea, and Vitaliy Musiyenko (USA).
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216777
- Bearhat Mountain (2,648m)
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New route on the northwest face (1,210m, WI4 M5) of Bearhat Mountain (2,648m), Montana Glacier National Park, from November 29-30 (37 hours round trip), by Brent Anderson and Dallin Carey (USA).
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216783
Canada
- Baffin - Coronation Glacier
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Two one-day first ascents from the Coronation Glacier in July by Noah Besen (USA) and James Klemmensen (Canada): Salami Exchange Commission (800m, V, 5.10), and Escape from Azkaban (650m, IV, 5.10+).
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216843
- Waddington Range - Serra Peaks (3,650m)
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First east to west traverse of the Serra Peaks (1-5; highest – Serra 4 – 3,650m), involving two new routes and climbing up to 5.7 AI3 M6, by Matteo Agnoloni and Ethan Berman (Canada) and Sebastien Pelletti (Australia). Three days; five days glacier to glacier.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216793
SOUTH AMERICA
Peru
- Ausangate (6,384m)
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First ascent of the north face of Ausangate (6,384m), Cordillera Vilcanota, via Japones Directo (1,100m, 5.10a WI6), from May 17-20, by Kei Narita and Yudai Suzuki (Japan). Traversed mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216823
- Ranrapalca (6,162m)
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First ascent of the northwest face of Ranrapalca (6,162m), Cordillera Blanca, via Ya Pe’ Cholo (900m, 6b 80°), from August 29-30, by Eneko Pou and Iker Pou (Spain) and Micher Quito (Peru). Traversed mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216848
- Tuctubamba West (5,140m)
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First ascent of the southwest face of Tuctubamba West (5,140m), Cordillera Blanca, via The Line under the Sky (1,100m of climbing, 6b M6+ but not sustained), on August 3, by Marek Radovský and Ďuri Švingál (Slovakia). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216808
Bolivia
- Huallomen (5,463m)
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First ascent of Ruta Imantata (500m, ED AI4 M5) on the southwest face of Huallomen (5,463m), Cordillera Real, on June 15, by Daniele Assolari (Italy), Ronaldo Choque Camargo, and Maria Teresa Llampa Vasquez (both Bolivia). Traversed mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216742
Argentina-Chile / Patagonia
- Cerro El Monstruo (1,805m)
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First ascent of La Chilenita (1,200m, 5.11+ A0) on the northeast face of Cerro El Monstruo (1,805m), Cochamó, from February 8-9, by Antar Machado and Cristobal Señoret (Chile). Traversed mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216579
- Monte San Valentin (4,058m)
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First ascent of the north spur (3,000m, WI5 M5) of Monte San Valentin (4,058m), from December 4-7 including two days glacier approach, by Oriol Baró and Martín Elías (Spain), and Nico Tapia (Chile). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216825
- Aguja Guillaumet (ca 2,580m)
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First complete and free ascent of Anda pa’ Alla (500m, 8a) on the west face of Aguja Guillaumet (ca 2,580m), Chaltén Massif, in one February day, by Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll (Belgium) and Pete Whittaker (UK).
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216584
- western top of Cerro Nora Oeste (2,420m)
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First ascent of the western top of Cerro Nora Oeste (2,420m), Northern Patagonia Icefield, via the west ridge – Zenin (ca 900m, 6a+ M6+) – on November 24 after a long approach, by Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera (Italy). Descended route.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216851
AUSTRALASIA
New Zealand
- Flat Top Peak (2,282m)
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First ascent of Apparition (1,100m, NZ 6+) on Flat Top Peak (2,282m), Darrans, on July 30, by Ben Dare (New Zealand), solo. Traversed mountain. First continuous traverse of the Darran Mountains, from south to north, from January 8-17, by Rauri MacFarlane (New Zealand), largely solo.
BOTH OF THE ABOVE ROUTES:
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216711
EUROPE
Norway
- Segla (639m)
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First ascent of the The Horns of Segla (ca 350m, Scottish IX,10) on the northeast face of Segla (639m), Senja Island, Troms og Finnmark, on one day in Februarym Greg Boswell, Hamish Frost, and Guy Robertson (UK).
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216838
- Klokktinden (860m)
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First ascent of Beyond Cod and Eagle (400m, WI5 M8) on the north face of Klokktinden (860m), Moskenesoya, Lofoten, on March 8, by Stian Bruvoll (Norway) and Chris Wright (USA). Traversed mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216842
- Stetind (1,392m)
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New route on the southwest face of Stetind (1,392m), Nordland – The Southwest Face (790m, 6c+ A0) – on June 30-July 1 (33 hours continuous), by Joda Dolmans and Andreas Widlund (Norway). Traversed mountain.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216839
- Kjerag (1,110m)
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Frist ascent of Silverback (1,000m, 20 pitches, 7b+) on the north face of Kjerag (1,110m), Rogaland, from September 9-10, by Jon Egil Auestad and Jan Eivind Danielsen (Norway).
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216737
More detailed info at: https://brattelinjer.no/problem/18300
The Alps
- Barre des Écrins (4,010m)
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First ascent of De l’or en Barre (1,000m, 6a+ A1 M7 WI5+) on the south face of Barre des Écrins (4,010m), Écrins Massif, from January 28-29, by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, and Benjamin Védrines (France). Traversed mountain.
- Les Trois Dents du Pelvoux (3,683m)
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First ascent of Marie Pelez Vous (900m, ED WI5+ M5+ 90°) on the east face of Les Trois Dents du Pelvoux (3,683m), Écrins Massif, from November 26-27, by Anouk Félix-Faure, Amaury Fouillade, Pierrick Giffard, and Raphaël Marsan (France).
https://www.montagnes-magazine.com/actus-marie-pelez-vous-nouvelle-voie-mixte-face-pelvoux
- Punta Brendel (3,498m)
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First ascent of Couloir Isaïe (600m, 7a/7a+ M8 AI5) on the west face of Punta Brendel (3,498m), Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Mont Blanc Massif, from February 12-13, by François Cazzanelli, Emrik Favre, and Stefano Stradelli (Italy). Descended route.
- Breithorn Central (4,159m)
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First ascent of Estate Indiana (800m, M8 AI5 R) on the north-northeast face of Breithorn Central (4,159m), Valais Alps, on September 30, by François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza (Italy). Traversed mountain.
- Eiger (3,967m)
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First ascent of Renaissance (820m, 7c, 7a obl, three short sections of A2, no bolts placed, capsule style) on the north face of the Eiger (3,967m), Bernese Oberland, from August 19–24, by Peter von Känel and Silvan Schüpbach (Switzerland).
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201216849
- Antelao (3,264m)
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First ascent of Oltre il Diau (ca 1,000m, 7c A2, no bolts placed) on the south face of Antelao (3,264m), Cadore, Dolomites, from October 4-7 by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, and Alex Walpot (Italy).
- Monte Agner (2,872m)
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First ascent of Ultima Perla Integral from base of the north face of Monte Agner (2,872m), Pala, Dolomites, via the South Tyrolean Route – Ultima Perla link (1,400m, M6 WI5+ A0), from December 27-29, by Simon Gietl (Italy), Lukas Hinterberger (Switzerland), and Michi Wohlleben (Germany).
- Sass Maor (2,812m)
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First ascent of Oltre l'Invisible (1,000m, 23 pitches, VIII, VII obl, no bolts placed) on the east face of Sass Maor (2,812m), Pala, Dolomites, from September 15-17, by Yann Borgnet and Antoine Bouqueret (France).