Piolets d'Or - Lunag Ri (6,895M)

We are very delighted to announce that the 2024 edition of the “Piolets d’Or” will be held

in San Martino di Castrozza, in Trentino (Italy), on December 8th to 11th.

Read the programme

2024 Awarded ascents & Special mention

The International Jury has chosen to make three Piolets d'Or Awards and one Special Mention. These are, in no particular order :

Tirich Mir (7,708m)

First ascent of The Secret Line on the north face of Tirich Mir (7,708m) in the Hindu Kush, Pakistan, from July 17-23. Traversed the mountain by descending the normal route...

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Jannu (7,710m)

©Alan Rousseau First ascent of Round Trip Ticket (2,700m, M7 AI5+ A0), a partial new route on the north face and northwest ridge of Jannu, Kangchenjunga Himal, from October 7-12. Descended...

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Flat Top (6,100m)

©Matthias Gribi First ascent of Tomorrow Is Another Day (1,400m, ED, 5c A2 WI4 M6) on the north face of Flat Top in the Kishtwar Himalaya, from October 2-6. Descended the...

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2024 Special Mention for Female Mountain…

The Piolets d’Or aims to promote female alpinism by making either a Special Mention to an all-female expedition completing a significant ascent in the Greater Ranges, or to a female...

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©Alessandro-Gruzza

San Martino di Castrozza, 8th-11th Decem…

We are very delighted to announce that the 2024 edition of the “Piolets d’Or” will be held in San Martino di Castrozza, in Trentino, on December 8th to 11th.

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2024 - Jordi Corominas

Jordi is a long-time IFMGA mountain guide living in Benasque on the southern slopes of the Pyrenees. Born in Barcelona, he spent his youth climbing in the Pyrenees and the...

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2024 - Significant ascents

This is a representative list of significant, innovative ascents from most mountain regions of the World. It is not a list of “nominated” ascents for the Piolets d'Or and should...

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Portraits & Tributes

Tribute to Hiraide and Nakajima

©Piotr Drożdż “For me, climbing is about carving out my own path, not following somebody else’s route.”Kazuya Hiraide The west face of K2 (8,611 m) is one of those legendary walls shrouded...

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Tribute to Sergey Nilov and Dmitry Golov…

This summer of 2024 will go down as one of the cruellest for the alpine community. We learned of the disappearance of the famous Japanese climbers Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro...

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Tribute to Archil Badriashvili

©Piotr Drożdż Georgian Archil Badriashvili died on 10 August 2024 at the age of 34. He was with some companions on Shkhelda (4,388 m), not far from Ushba, in the Caucasus...

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Lunag Ri from the southwest.
(A) Main summit (6,895m).
(B) Southeast top
(1) Line of Anker-Lama attempts in 2015 and 2016.
(2) Line of Lama’s solo ascents.
(H1) High point with Anker in 2016.
(H2) High point of 2015 attempt and 2016 solo attempt.
©David Lama/American Alpine Journal

FIRST ASCENT VIA WEST RIDGE1,500M, 90°,
DAVID LAMA (AUSTRIA), SOLO, OCTOBER 23-25

Lunag  Ri  is  the  culminating  point  of  the  Rolwaling's  Lunag  Massif,  which  straddles  the  Nepal-Tibet  border.  Before  2018  it  was  one  of  the  highest  unclimbed peaks in Nepal and there had been at least four serious attempts to reach its lofty summit. An attempt from the southeast, and another from the north, both finished on a subsidiary southeast top. In 2015 Conrad Anker and  David  Lama  reached  a  point  on  the  west  ridge  around  300m  below  the  summit,  finding  the  ridge  more  complex  and  difficult  than  expected.  They returned in 2016, only for Anker to be evacuated by helicopter after suffering a  stroke.  Lama  subsequently  made  a  bold  solo  attempt,  surpassing  his  previous high point by around 50m.In 2018, when Anker confirmed he would no longer go on this sort of expedi-tion, Lama decided to decline other offers from strong partners and to go it alone. In the intense cold of late October, the Austrian climbed difficult mixed terrain, ice and snow, with two bivouacs, to reach the crux technical climbing on the steep headwall. Surmounting this, he made an airy traverse on to the spectacular  diving-board  summit.  Lama  descended  by  rappel,  mostly  along  the  line  of  his  route.  It  was  a  climb  that  would  remain  "engraved  in  my memory for the exposure, the difficulty, the cold and the loneliness, and for a successful conclusion to a personal project".

What are the "Piolets d'Or" ?

A celebration of mountaineering

The purpose of the Piolets d'Or awards is to raise awareness about the year's greatest ascents across the world.  They aim to celebrate the taste for adventure, the bravery and sense of exploration that lie behind the art of climbing in the world's great mountain ranges. The Piolets d'Or draw their inspiration from mountaineering's rich history.  They are a celebration of a sense of partnership and solidarity, of shared experiences, and reward individual or collective achievement.

The Spirit of Modern Alpinism

More than just the recognition of a performance, the Piolets d'Or celebrates passion, spirit and values. The spirit of the Piolets d’Or draws its inspiration from the history of alpinism and the authenticity of true team spirit. The style should take precedence over the conquest of an objective.  Success is no longer about getting to the summit at all costs, employing all possible financial and technical means, (oxygen, fixed ropes, doping products, etc) or large-scale human resources (high-altitude porters or sherpas). The Piolets d’Or event encourages imagination in searching for innovative routes using a maximum of economy of means, making use of experience and respecting man and nature. The Piolets d’Or is attached to making climbing a shared and valued richness all over the world, capable of attracting the best of human ambitions whilst encompassing moral values and edifying behaviour. The Piolets d'Or event is therefore a celebration of an ethical alpinism, rich in emotion.

 

 

Les Piolets d'Or

Piolets d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award

In 2009, the first Lifetime Achievement Piolet d’Or was awarded to Walter Bonatti.  His style of mountaineering perfectly reflected the spirit of thePiolets d’Or.  He became a sort of godfather to those who would receive this award after him. In honour of the man and his spirit, it has been renamed the “Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement, Walter Bonatti Award”.

The Career Piolets d'Or was created to reward a career where the spirit has inspired the following generations, in the sense of criteria set down by the convention.
Recipients of the Piolet d'Or Career :
2009 : Walter BONATTI
2010 : Reinhold MESSNER
2011 : Doug SCOTT
2012 : Robert PARAGOT
2013 : Kurt DIEMBERGER
2014 : John ROSKELLEY
2015 : Chris BONINGTON
2016 : Wojciech KURTYKA
2017 : Jeff LOWE
2018 : Andrej ŠTREMFELJ
2019 : Krzysztof WIELICKI
2020 : Catherine DESTIVELLE
2021 : Yasushi YAMANOI
2022 : Silvo KARO
2023 : George LOWE
2024 : Jordi COROMINAS

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2024 Organizers