Following his ascent of Hagshu in 2014 (which received a Piolet d’Or in 2015), veteran Slovenian alpinist Marko Prezelj, who already has three Piolets d’Or to his name, set his sights on the unexplored east side of the nearby Cerro Kishtwar. Mick Fowler and Steve Sustad made the first ascent of the peak by the northwest face in 1993. After acclimatizing with a first ascent of the south ridge of Chomochior (6,278m, 1,400m, D+), the four-person team of Marko Prezelj, American Hayden Kennedy (who received a Piolet d’Or in 2013 for his ascent of Baintha Brakk in India), Frenchman Manu Pellissier, and Slovenian Urban Novak made the first ascent of Light Before Wisdom on 5-8 October 2015. The 1,200 m line is rated ED+ (more precisely: 5.11, WI6, M6, A2). The team descended by the south face and then rappelled the mountain’s east couloir.
The International Jury has chosen to make three Piolets d'Or Awards and one
Special Mention. These are, in no particular order :
Jirishanca (ca 6,094m), south-southeast …
© Quentin Roberts First ascent of the south-southeast spur of Jirishanca, Cordillera Huayhuash, via Reino Hongo (1,000m, M7 AI5+ 90°) from July 21-23. Descent by the east buttress and lower southeast face It...
Read moreJugal Spire (aka Dorje Lhakpa II, 6,563m…
©Paul Ramsden First ascent of Jugal Spire (6,563m), Jugal Himal, via The Phantom Line (1,300m, ED) on the north face, from April 25-29. Descent was effected by traversing the mountain and...
Read morePumari Chhish East (ca 6,850m)
©Victor Saucède The first ascent of Pumari Chhish East, Hispar Muztagh, via The Crystal Ship (1,600m, 6b A2 M7) on the south face and upper west ridge, from June 25-29. The...
Read moreSpecial Mention 2023 - First ascent of t…
©Ramona Waldner The Piolets d’Or wishes to promote female alpinism, with the aim of inspiring future generations of female climbers. It also realizes the difficulty in finding a universally accepted mechanism...
Read moreThe Piolets d’Or wishes to promote female alpinism, with the aim of inspiring future generations of female climbers. It also realizes the difficulty in finding a universally accepted mechanism for doing so. From time to time, it makes one or more Special Mentions. These are not Piolets d’Or, but a recognition bestowed on an ascent that is deemed notable for different reasons, yet still fitting with the core values of the Piolets d’Or Charter.