La liste ci-dessous regroupe les ascensions les plus marquantes et novatrices de l'année qui a précédé, et qui respectent plus ou moins la Charte des Piolets d'Or. Les niveaux de difficulté correspondent à ceux indiqués par les premiers ouvreurs. Dans le cas de nouvelles voies ou d'ouvertures, ces niveaux restent à être confirmés. Certains des liens web indiqués pour chaque ascensions ne sont pas toujours les plus parlants, mais ils sont néanmoins les meilleurs disponibles.
Cette liste préliminaire des ascensions majeures faites en 2015 a été compilée par Lindsay Griffin (American Alpine Journal) et Claude Gardien.
ASIA
Népal
- Gave Ding (6,571m)
Mick Fowler, Paul Ramsden (UK) -
First ascent, north buttress, 1,600m, ED+ Scottish VI
Over Summit.
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43199. - Nilgiri South (6,939m)
Hansjorg Auer, Alexander Blumel, Gerhard Fiegl -
South face, ca 1,500m M5 90°
Fiegl killed on descent. Over Summit.
http://www.hansjoerg-auer.at/nilgiri-south - Thulagi Chuli (7,059m)
Ivan Dozhdev, Aleksander Gukov, Ruslan Kirichenko, Valery Shamalo (Russia) -
First ascent, west face, Happy Birthday, 1,850m, TD+ AI4+ 5c M4
http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=7454
- Chobutse (6,686m)
Mingma Gyalje Sherpa (Nepal) -
West face, Dorjee Sherpa Route, ca 1,200m
Mingma Gyalje Sherpa, solo, evacuated from summit by helicopter.
http://gripped.com/news/new-big-mountain-routes-climbed-in-nepal/ - Chugimago (6,258m)
Luka Strazar-Matej Mucic (Slovenia) -
West face, 800m, AI4 M5
http://ka.pzs.si/novica.php?pid=10570 - Dzasamptse (6,293m)
Julien Dusserre, Mathieu Détrie, Pierre Labbre, Mathieu Maynadier (France) -
Northeast face, A la Verticale de la Peine, 700m, TD+ WI5-
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43187
- WestTawache (Taboche, 6,495m)
Skiy De Tray, Justin Griffin (USA) -
Northeast pillar, not to summit, ca 1,100m, AI5 M5/6 R,
To top of face, descent by different route, Griffin killed on descent
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15y/newswire-accident-taboche-north-buttress - Ama Dablam (6,856m)
Fleur Fouque, Sébastien Rougegré, Fanny Schmutz, Damien Tomasi (French) -
Lagunak (south) ridge, first alpine-style ascent. 1,200m, TD+ F5 AI5 M4 90°
Over Summit
http://www.escalade.pro/news/en/ama-dablam-nepal-style-alpin-lagunak-ridge
- Talung (7,439m)
Nikita Balabanov, Mikhail Formin (Ukraine) -
North-northwest spur, Daddy Magnum Force, 1,700m, ED2 AI6 M6 A3
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15y/newswire-ukrainian-climbers-score-major-route-mt-talung
India
- Ri Pok Te (6,210m)
Anastasija Davidova, Matic Jost (Slovenia) -
East face and southwest ridge, From East to West, 1,000m TD+/ED1 VI-
And other routes
http://raru2015.blogspot.co.uk/2015/10/summary-slovenian-alpinists-anastasija.html - Turpendeo (5,700m)
Andreas Abegglen, Thomas Senf, Stephan Siegrist (Switzerland) -
First ascent, southeast pillar, Deokhal, 800m 6a/b
http://stephan-siegrist.ch/en/kashmir.2015
- Cerro Kishtwar (6,173m)
Hayden Kennedy, Urban Novak, Manu Pellissier, Marko Prezelj (USA-Slovenia-France) -
East face, Light before Wisdom, 1,200m, ED+ 5.11 WI6 M6 A2
https://kishtwar2015eng.wordpress.com
Pakistan
- First Link Sar West (6,938m)
Jon Griffith, Andy Houseman (UK) -
Northwest face, Fever Pitch, ca 1,400m M4
Over Summit.
http://alpineexposures.com/expeditions/first-ascent-of-link-sar-west---fever-pitch - K6 West (7,040m)
Scott Bennett, Graham Zimmerman (USA) -
Southwest ridge, 1,800m, M6 90° ice
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15x/newswire-new-routes-in-karakoram
- Dream Walker Peak (5,809m)
Maciej Bedrejczuk, Maciej Janczar, Tomasz Klimczak, Marcin Wernik (Poland) -
North face, Rolling (D)ice, ca 1,450m, ED1/2 AI5 80° M5,
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15y/newswire-polish-team-authors-new-routes-tagas-mountains - Changi Tower (ca 6,500m)
Scott Bennett, Steve Swenson, Graham Zimmerman (USA) -
First ascent, north ridge, 600m, M6 5.10 A2
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15x/newswire-new-routes-in-karakoram
China
- Mt. Chu - San Lian Southeast (ca 6,250m)
Marcin Rutkowski, Wojtek Ryczer, Rafał Zając (Poland) -
First ascent, east face, Hard Camping, ca 1,000m, ED2 M7 WI5 R
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15y/newswire-cramped-bivies-maze-like-glaciers-san-lian-east
Kyrgyzstan
- Sedoy Strazh (Byeliy East, 5,481m)
Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev, Sergey Nilov (Russia) -
First ascent, northeast face, Devjaty Val, 1,230m 6B
Over Summit. Awarded Russian Piolet d'Or.
http://www.mountain.ru/article/article_display1.php?article_id=7483 - Panfilovski Division East (ca 5,300m)
Ben Erdmann, Sam Johnson (USA) -
East face, Flight of the Zephyr, 600m, AI4 R M7
http://www.climbing.com/news/blind-date-leads-to-new-route-on-kyrgyz-peak/
- Pik Panfilovski Division
Miha Hauptman, Uros Stanonik (Slovenia) -
Northwest face, White Walker, 900m, AI5 M6
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43168 - Pik Carnovsky
Anze Jerze, Miha Hauptman, Uros Stanonik (Slovenia) -
West face, Mr Mojo Risin, 500m, AI5+ M5 R X
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43168
Russia
- Mamison (4,319m)
Dmitry Romanenko, Vladimir Roshko (Ukraine) -
North face, centre of Triangle (winter), 820m 6A
http://www.risk.ru/blog/206474
- Bilibino, Commander
Hansjorg Auer, Jacopo Lacher, Siebe Vanhee (Austria-Italy-Belgium) -
North face, Red Corner, 450m 7c+
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/multinational-team-climbs-hard-and-free-in-the-bilibino
Madagascar
- Tsaranoro Atsimo
Siebe Vanhee, Sean Villanueva (Belgium) -
Fire in the Belly, 700m 8a+
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43076
- Karambony
Hassan Gerami, Hamid Resa Shafagi, Farshad Mijoji (Iran) -
The Change Experience, 442m 8b A2 (two pitches)
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42838
NORTH AMERICA
Canada
- Malaspina (3,776m)
Natalia Martinez, Camilo Rada (Argentina-Chile) -
First ascent, north flank and east ridge, 1,900m, TD AI2, 55-65°.
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/argentinianchilean-duo-summit-north-americas-highest-unclimbed-named-mountain - Great Cross Pillar (ca 1,690m)
David Allfrey, Cheyne Lempe (USA) -
South face, Deconstructing Jenga, 900m, 5.9+ A3+
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15s/newswire-new-route-in-sam-ford-fjord-baffin-island
- Waddington, northwest summit (4,000m)
Paul McSorley, Ines Papert, Mayan Smith-Gobat (Canada-Germany-New Zealand) -
Southwest buttress, 800m, ED1 5.11+ WI3 M5
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15y/wfeature-international-team-completes-mt-waddington-project - Snowpatch Spire (3,084m)
Will Stanhope with Matt Segal (Canada) -
East face, Tom Egan Memorial Route, FFA, 500m, 13 pitches, V 5.14
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15x/newswire-will-stanhope-tom-egan-bugaboos
Alaska
- Devil's Paw (2,616m)
Simon Gietl, Roger Schaeli (Italy-Switzerland) -
North summit, first ascent via northwest ridge, Black Roses, 1,000m, 6c A1 M4
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/gietl-and-schaeli-climb-devils-paw-north-summit - Deborah (3,760m)
Jon Griffith, Will Sim (UK) -
Northwest face and northwest ridge, Bad to the Bone, 2,000m
http://alpineexposures.com/expeditions/alaska-2015-nw-face-of-mt-deborah - North Triple Peak (2,560m)
Tim Blakemore, Mike "Twid" Turner (UK) -
Northwest face, No Country for Old Men, 800m, ED AI6
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/blakemore-and-turner-climb-no-country-for-old-men-in-alaska
- Citadel (1,988m)
Jon Bracey, Matt Heliiker (UK) -
Northwest ridge
http://www.mountainpromag.com/?p=382 - Jezebel, east summit (ca 2,870m)
Pete Graham, Ben Silvestre (UK) -
First ascent, east face, Hoar of Babylon 1,200m, VI WI6 M6 A0
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/how-to-climb-a-new-route-in-alaska
GREENLAND
- Mirror Wall (ca 2,050m)
Waldo Etherington, Leo Houlding, Joe Möhle, Matt Pickles, Matt Pycroft (UK-S Africa) -
Northwest face, ca 1,200m, E6 6b (5.12b) A3+
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/leo-houlding-mirror-wall
- Ulamertorsuaq, Piteraq
Silvan Schupbach, Bernadette Zak (Switzerland) -
Almost free ascent, 28 pitches, 7c R X with a three-metre pendulum
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42997
SOUTH AMERICA
Bolivia
- Illimani (6,438m)
Thomas Arfi, Manu Chance (France) -
South Face, Por la Vida, 1,200m WI5+
Over Summit
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213501/Illimani-South-Face-Partial-New-Route
- Condoriri Traverse
Juvenal Condori, Sergio Condori (Bolivia) -
Nine summits, 14km to 5,648m, ED2 6a AI5+ M4
AAJ report only
Argentina - Chile
- Cerro Riso Patron Central (ca 2,550m)
Lise Billon, Antoine Moineville, Jérôme Sullivan (France) -
East face, Hasta las Webas, 1,000m, ED- WI5+ M5
http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/risopatron.html - Reverse Torre Traverse (max 3,100m)
Colin Haley, Marc Andre Leclerc (USA-France) -
Cerro Torre-Egger-Heron-Standhardt, Travesia del Oso Buda, 1,200m M6 6a+ C1
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213173/Cerro-Torre-group-La-Travesa-del-Oso-Buda
- Cerro Adela Norte
Dani Ascaso, Lise Billon, Santiago Padros, Jérôme Sullivan (Spain-France) -
East face, not to summit, Balas y Chocolate, 900m, ED+ WI5+ A2 M6+ X
Different descent.
http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/adelagroup/adelacentral/balas.html
EUROPE
Norway
- Trolltind (1,788m)
Marek Raganowicz, Marcin Tomaszewski (Poland) -
Trollveggen, Katharsis, winter, ca 1,150m, VI A4 M7
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42502
Alps
- Schneefernerkopf (2,875m)
Joachim Feger, Michael Wohileben (Germany) -
West face, Optimist, 1,300m M6
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42526# - Eiger, north face (exit ca 3,700m)
Simon Gietl, Robert Jasper, Roger Schali (Italian-German-Swiss) -
Odyssee, 1,400m, 33 pitches, Redpoint 8a+
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43082# - Classic Six North Faces
Tom Ballard (UK) -
All solo and in one winter
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/tom-ballard-climbs
- Qualido (2,707m)
Paolo Marazzi, Luca Schiera, Matteo de Zaiacomo (Italy) -
East face, King of the Bongo, ca 800m, 18 pitches, 7c+ (no bolts)
http://ragnilecco.com/king-bongo/ - Chugimago (6,258m)
Patrick Gabarrou and various partners over 13 years finishing with Pierre Gourdin (France) -
Matterhorn (4,478m), south face, Padre Pio, échelle vers le ciel, 1,300m, 7a
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web15y/wfeature-a-stairway-to-heaven-matterhorn - Aiguille du Fou (3,501m)
Fabien Dugit, Cédric Lachat (France) -
South face, Ballade au Clair de Lune, FFA at 8b
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/balade-au-clair-de-lune-on-the-south-face-of-the-fou-climbed-free
- Pic Sans Nom (3,913m, Ecrins Massif)
Benjamin Brochard, Fred Degoulet, Jonathan Joly (France) -
North face, Le Prestige des Ecrins, 1,000m, M6+ 6a
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43155
Alexandre Michel, Stefano Morino-Pierre Sauget (France)
North face, Winter is Coming, 700m, 550m new, F5 M5+ 80°
http://sommets.info/nouvelle-voie-en-face-nord-de-lailefroide-orientale/
Dolomites
- Torre Venezia (2,337m)
Nicolas Tondini, Emanuele Pellizzari (Italy) -
South face, FWA of Rondo Veneziano, 470m, IX-
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43357
- Condoriri Traverse
Martin Dejori, Marta Mozzati, Titus Prinoth, Giorgio Travaglia-Alex Walpoth (Italy) -
Civetta (3,220m), northwest face, Via Degli Studenti, 1,000m, VIII- A0
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=42976#