Piolets d'Or - Ascensions marquantes de 2025

2025 - Significant first ascents

This is a representative list of significant, innovative ascents from most mountain regions of the World. Whilst not every climb listed here would be considered eligible for a Piolet d'Or, all are regarded as noteworthy and adventurous within their particular regions, mostly involving new ground and technical climbing in lightweight style. Grades quoted by the first ascensionists remain unconfirmed.


This preliminary list of significant first ascents during 2025 was compiled by Lindsay Griffin (Senior Editor, American Alpine Journal), with help from Dougald MacDonald (Editor in Chief, American Alpine Journal) and Rodolphe Popier (Fédération Française des Clubs Alpins et de Montagne). .

PAKISTAN

Koh-e-Langur

First ascent of the northwest face (2,266m GPS, Russian 6A/6B) of Koh-e-Langur (7,134m), Hindu Kush, August 30-September 2, by Bakar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze (Georgia). Traversed mountain by descending first north, then along the west ridge, and then south.

No link

Languta-e-Barfi

First ascent of the southeast face and south ridge (2,000m, 5A, 60° ice and 70° snow) of Languta-e-Barfi (6,833m), Hindu Kush, August 22-23, by Bakar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze (Georgia). Traversed mountain and descended the east ridge and south face.

No link

Nanga Parbat

First ascent of Nezabudka (2,825m, some M4 and one section of 80° ice) on the northwest face of Nanga Parbat (8125m), Western Himalaya, July 6-10, by Maria Jose Cardell Fernandez (Spain) and Denis Urubko (Russia). Upper section in common with the Bauer variation to the Kinshofer Route Descended Kinshofer Route on north face.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217408

Khurdopin Sar

First ascent of Khurdopin Sar (6,458m), Virjerab Muztagh, via the south couloir and west ridge (ca 1,000m, D 70°), October 14-15, by Gaëtan Navarrete and Julien Priour (France). Reversed route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217421

Tumladen Sar

First ascent of Tumladen Sar (6,232m), Virjerab Muztagh, via the northwest face (80°), September 21-23, by Matej Prcin (Slovakia), Marco Schwidergall and Tomasz Rodsynkiewicz (Poland). Traversed mountain by descending south ridge and face.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217435

Aikache Chhok

First ascent of northwest face of Aikache Chhok (6,673m), Batura Muztagh, via Secrets, Shepherds, Sex and Serendipity (3,000m, M7 A2+ AI5), October 12-20, by George Ponsonby (Ireland) and James Price (UK). Traversed mountain, descending unclimbed ground to the west and then north.

No link

Ultar

First ascent of southeast pillar of Ultar (7,388m), Batura Muztagh, via Shooting the Moon (3,100m, M5 WI4), June 6-11, by Ethan Berman, Maarten van Haeren (both Canada) and Sebastián Pelleti (Australia). Reversed/rappelled route.

No link

Hunza Peak

First ascent of the southeast face of Hunza Peak (6,270m), Batura Muztagh, via Eid al-Adha (V+ M6 WI5 90°) to northeast summit, June 6-9, by Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák (Czech Republic). Reversed/rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217412

Spantik

First ascent of the east ridge (1,800m, M5 A1 80°) of Spantik (7,027m), Spantik-Sosbun Range, to just below the summit, then traverse to, followed by descent of, the normal route (southeast ridge), June 9-13, by Mueez Ud Din (Pakistan) and Mathieu Maynadier (France).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217434

Suma Brakk West

First ascent of Suma Brakk West (a.k.a. Eye Ri, 6,120m), Panmah Muztagh, via HmlaA (1,000m, 5.11 A3 80°) on the northwest face and west ridge, August 9-12, by Jon Griffin, Tad McCrea (both USA) and Thomas Huber (Germany). Reversed/rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217414

Laila Peak

First ascent of the southeast face of Laila Peak (6,096m), Masherbrum Range, via Top-R-oute in the Rock (450m, UIAA VI- A1 M6 75°), September 6-7, by Jacek Czech and Jędrzej Myśliński (Poland). Rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217432

Hasho Peak II

First ascent of Fuku (880m, 5.10 AI 60°) on the east pillar and southeast ridge of Hasho Peak II (6,080m), Tagas Group, September 11-13, by Genki Narumi, Yudai Suzuki, and Hiroki Yamamoto (Japan). Descended by downclimbing the complete southeast ridge and West Lachit Glacier.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217431

Billie Kangri

First ascent of Billie Kangri (6,310m), Western Saltoro Range, via Mamba Buttress (1,450m, M7 C1 AI4) on the north-northwest face, September 29-October 1, by Dane Steadman and Cody Winckler (USA). Reversed/rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217411

Sangar Tower

First ascent of Sangar Tower (6,082m) via Sabertooth Direct (5.10 A2+ AI4 M6), Western Saltoro Range, September 21-23, by Blake Berghoff, Dane Steadman, and Cody Winkler (USA). Rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217411

Chumik Kangri

First ascent of Chumik Kangri (6,764m, on the Line of Control between Pakistan and India), Eastern Saltoro Mountains, via the Great Gig in the Sky (1,000m ED, M6 AI4 A1) on the south face, September 11-14, by Michał Czech and Wadim Jabłonski (Poland), and Adam Kaniak (Slovakia). Traversed mountain by descending the previously unclimbed west ridge.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217409

INDIA

Khan Chan Chenmo

First ascent of Khan Chan Chenmo (6,135m), Denyai Tokpo, Kishtwar Range, via Wish You Were Here (700m, 5b 50°) on the northeast face and southeast face, September 12, by Folke Drost, Maël Durand, Niek de Jonge, Laura Oldenburger, Alex Sternfeld, and Bas Visscher (Netherlands). Descended route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217454

Shawa Kangri

First ascent of Less is More (500m, VIII) on the northwest face of Shawa Kangri (5,728m), Rangtik Tokpo, Kishtwar Range, September 23, Chiara Gusmeroli, Davide Nesa, and Matteo de Zaiacomo (Italy). Rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217455

Iris Peak

First ascent of Karma (700m, 6c) following mostly new ground on the southwest face of Iris Peak (5,200m), Miyar Valley, Lahaul and Spiti, October 11-12, by Oksana Kochubey, Nadia Muzhikina, Olga Paducheva, and Nadia Pilshchikova (Russia). Rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217467

NEPAL

Changla Kang West

First ascent of Changla Kang West (6,233m), Changla Himal, via the southwest ridge (1,200m, WI4 M5), November 1-3, Alex Hansen and Benny Lieber (USA). Descended route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217451

Bijora Hiunchuli

First ascent of Bijora Hiunchuli (6,111m), Kanjiroba Himal, via the northeast ridge (ca 1,000m, 70°), October 23-24, by Yasuhiro Hanatani, Masatake Higa, Sota Kodama, Mei Okajima, Masayuki Takenaka, and Akiyoshi Tanaka (Japan). Some ropes fixed during the ascent. Descended route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217446

Manaslu

First ascent of the south-southwest face (1,850m after a complex approach up the Thulagi Glacier, 45-60° with short sections of M4) of Manaslu (8,163m), Manaslu Himal, October 14-22, by Natalia Belyankina, Kirill Eizeman, Sergey Kondrashkin, Vitaly Shipilov, and Andrey Vasilyev (Russia). Traversed mountain by descending the 1972 Tyrolean (Messner) Route along the west-northwest ridge and southwest face to the Thulagi Glacier. Six nights above 7,000m.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217405

Kimshung

First ascent of Kimshung (6,781m), Langtang Himal, via Destiny (ca 680m, TD, M5 AI4 60° snow), which follows the east couloir and south-southeast ridge, October 20, by François Cazzanelli and Giuseppe Vidoni (Italian), and Lukas Waldner and Benjamin Zoerer (Austria). Reversed/rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217404

Langdung

First ascent of Big Issue (550m, WI5+, M6, A2+) on the east face of the east summit of Langdung (6,326m), Rolwaling Himal, October 24-26, by Philippe Bruley, Aymeric Clouet and Hugo Meringolo (France). Descent via south face.

https://www.montagnes-magazine.com/actus-enam-livre-recette-une-expedition-reussie-retour-nepal

Kwangde Nup

First ascent of Slovo od Mladosti (1,000m, AI5+ WI3 M6 and one move of A1), on the northwest face to west ridge (stopping at 5,850m) of Kwangde Nup, Rolwaling Himal, October 12-13, by Matic Primožič and Urh Primožič (Slovenia). Rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217447

Numbur

First complete ascent of the southeast face of Numbur (6,958m), Rolwaling Himal, via Nepali Ice Spa (1,000m, ED-, WI5 M4), October 18-19, by Hervé Barmasse (Italy), Felix Berg (Germany), and Adam Bielecki (Poland). Descended Japanese route on southwest ridge.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217406

Anidesh Chuli

First ascent of Anidesh Chuli (6,808m), Kangchenjunga Himal, via the west face and north ridge (1,140m, TD), September 26, by Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines (France). Descent by paraglider.

No link

Jannu East

First ascent of Jannu East (7,460m), Kangchenjunga Himal, via Le Sommet des Pieux (2,300m, M6 WI5) on the north face and east ridge, October 12-15, by Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines (France). Reversed/rappelled route.

No link

Kabru

First ascent of the northwest face and north ridge (ca 2,200m D, 50-60°) of Kabru (7,412m), Kangchenjunga Himal, May 2-4, by Romano Benet, Nives Meroi (both Italy), and Peter Hámor (Slovakia). Second ascent of mountain. Reversed route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217403

CHINA-TIBET

Sendho

First ascent of Sendho (6,620m), Nyanchen Tanglha East, Tibet, via the east face (700m, no grade given), September 11, by Tong Haijun and Huang Siyuan (China).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217531

Chomolhari III

First ascent of Chomolhari III (6,706m), Eastern Himalaya, via Shining Wall (1,400m, M5 AI2 70°) on the North Spur, July 23-26, by He Lang, Song Yuancheng, and Liu Yang (China). Reversed/rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217364

Peak 5,600m

First ascent of Peak 5,600m, Shaluli Shan, China, via Grad Kristalov (700m, VII A1) on the west-southwest pillar, one day in October, by Luka Lindič (Slovenia) and Fanny Schmutz (France). Rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217526

Lotus Flower Mountain

First ascent of Safe Return Home (900m, TD M5+ AI3 75°) on the north face of Lotus Flower Mountain (5,704m), Daxue Shan, November 9-11, by Wang Kun and Xiang Shuxiang (China). Descended by downclimbing and rappelling the west face.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217529

KYRGYZSTAN

Svarog

New route (1,300m, 6B A4) on the north face of Svarog (5,005m), Gisser Alai, August 4-7, Evgeny Korulin, Egor Matveenko, Artem Pivovarchik, and Tikhon von Stackelberg (Russia). Portaledge camps. Rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217582

Dioskury

New route (1,200m, 6B M7 A3) on the north face of Dioskury (4,884m), Gisser Alai, August 15-19, Leonid Krupa, Roman Shesternin, and Maxim Ten (Kazakhstan), and Alexey Marshalov (Russia). Rappelled face via an established route to the left.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217579

RUSSIA

Mizhirgi West

First ascent of the southwest buttress (27 pitches, 6a+) of Mizhirgi West (5,018m), Central Caucasus, August 16-17, by Ivan Koblyakov, Ivan Kuchkin, and Alexander Sokolov (Russia). Rappelled similar route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217546

 

GEORGIA

Archil Peak

First ascent of Archil Peak (ca 3,800m), Chaukhi Range, Caucasus, via the east face (680m, 5B M5+), October 31, by Vakho Blagidze, Bakar Gelashvili, Temo Qurdiani, Giorgi Tepnadze, and Tornike Tepnadze (Georgia). Rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217588

 

GREENLAND

Ikamiut Fjord Area

First ascent of Simon's Route (870m of climbing plus ca 400m of scrambling, British E3 6a and one wet pitch of A1) on a possibly unnamed spire in the Ikamiut Fjord Area of West Greenland, July 13-14, by Ben Kent and Robbie Milne (UK). First ascent of Duddon Valley Syndrome (610m, E3/4 6a) by the same team on the same formation.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217535

Ulamertorssuaq

First ascent of Big Kumura (1,300m, 510+ C2 R) on the northwest face of Ulamertorssuaq, Tasermiut Fjord, South Greenland, August 16-19 after previous attempts, by Mason Gardener, Jacob Kuchler, and Liam Pyott (New Zealand).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217537

Titan II

Possible first ascent of Titan II (1,736m), Kangikitsoq Fjord, South Greenland, via Rafale (1,200m, 7a) on the southwest face, July 27-29, by Marco Dattolo and Luca Rosales (France).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217538

Graah Fjord

First ascent of Imaqa (1,000m of climbing, 7a C1) on the southeast face of a 600m-high unnamed formation in Graah Fjord, East Greenland, August 3-4, by Naomie Bürki, Lea Schneider, and Ramona Volken (Switzerland). These three were part of a female young alpinist team, led by Caro North, which climbed six new routes in the Graah Fjord and Skjoldungen regions. Access from Switzerland by public transport (no flights) and sailboat.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217536

CANADA

Sikunga Mountain

First ascent of Sikunga Express (975m, US VII, 5.10 A4 WI3 M6) on the west face of Sikunga Mountain, Baffin Island, capsule style during May with 23 nights spent at portaledge camps, by Erik Boomer and Kylus Hart (USA).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217519

Eglinton Tower

First ascent of Lemnos in the Clouds (600m, 5.11+ A0, plus scrambling) on the northwest buttress of Eglinton Tower (1,232m, did not reach summit), Baffin Island, June 19-20, by Natalie Afonina, Shira Biner, Heather Smallpage and Kelly Turner (USA, all-female+ team: three women and one non-binary).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217522

USA-ALASKA

Mount Providence

First ascent of Through the Castle of Providence (1,000m, 5.10 WI4 M5) on the south face of Mount Providence (3,414m), Central Alaska Range, April 25-26, by Andres Marin, Tad McCrea, and Anna Pfaff (USA).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217393

Mount Moffit

First ascent of Enthalpy (northeast) Ridge (2,600m, M5+ WI3) of Mount Moffit (3,969m), Hayes Range, Alaska, April 20-22, by Dane Steadman and Cody Winckler (USA). Traversed mountain, descending northwest ridge.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217388

PERU

Santa Cruz

First ascent of Illegal (1,000m, TD+, AI4 M5) on the south face of Santa Cruz (6,259m), Cordillera Blanca, July 2-3, Nathan Heald (USA/Peru) and Josue Sánchez (Peru). Rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217550

Santa Cruz Chico

First ascent of the west face of Santa Cruz Chico (5,800m), Cordillera Blanca, via Directíssima Mallorquina (520m, TD+), July 9, by Guillermo Anguera, Lluís Dietrich, Cati Lladó, Miquel Angel Lorente, and Tomeu Rubí (Spain). Rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217560

Yerupajá

First complete ascent of east spur and east ridge via The Essence of Commitment (1,400m, 6c+ M6+ 95°) to the main summit of Yerupajá (6,634m), Cordillera Huayhuash, followed by a traverse to Yerupajá Sur and descent of the southeast face (1,000m at an average angle of 65°). Full traverse from August 4-8 by Bru Busom, Rubén Sanmartin, and Marc Toralles (Spain). First traverse of the mountain from the east.

No link

Northeast top of Jurau A

First ascent of Kuntur (900m, 1,575m of climbing, 6c M5 70° snow/ice) on the northeast face of the Northeast top of Jurau A (5,560m), Cordillera Huayhuash, June 21-22, by Eneko and Iker Pou (Spain). Reversed/rappelled route.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217416

CHILE AND ARGENTINA

Cerro El Brujo Sur

The first ascent of the south ridge (2,300m, VI, 5.8 M5 WI3) of Cerro El Brujo Sur (4,350m), Chilean Central Andes, November 1-3, by Raimundo De Andraca and Diego Sáez Beros (Chile). Descended to north. Most likely the first ascent of Cerro El Brujo Sur, which is an indistinct top at the end of the south ridge of Cerro El Brujo.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217415

Cerro Steffen

Second ascent of Cerro Steffen (3,306m), Southern Chilean Patagonia Icecap, via a new route, Sincronía (900m, WI4 M4) on the west face, November 6-7, by Paloma Farkas (USA), Angelina Di Prinzio (Argentina) and Catalina Unwin (Chile). Rappel descent.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217490

Pirita Central

First ascent of Todo Lo Que se Comparte (ca 1,000m, 5.11 one move of A0) on the north face of Pirita Central, Turbio IV Valley, Argentina, January 24-25, by the female team of Flavie Cardinal and Jasper Pankratz (Canada).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217171

Cuerno Norte

First ascent of Norteado (500m, 5.11+) on the west face of Cuerno Norte (2,400m), Torres del Paine, Chile, November 10, by Sebastián Pelleti (Australia) and Hernan Rodriguez (Chile). Rappel descent.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/seba-pelletti-hernan-rodriguez-norteado-cuerno-norte-torres-del-paine-patagonia.html

PERFORMANCE IN THE GREATER RANGES

A small selection of outstanding ascents or descents of established routes

Cerro Torre

First solo winter ascent of Cerro Torre (3,128m), Chaltén Massif, via the Ragni Route on the southwest face, September 6-8, by Colin Haley (USA). The ascent was completed in a seven-day round trip from the El Chaltén road (58km in distance). Almost the entire route was backroped due to the difficulty of winter ice. A little later Haley made the first solo winter ascent of Cerro Standhardt (2,730m).

No link

Fitz Roy

First winter ascent of the Casarotto Route (1,250m, 6c 65°) on the north pillar of Fitz Roy (3,405m), Chaltén Massif, September 5-7, by Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori (Italy). Descended Franco-Argentinian Route.

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/fitz-roy-casarotto-route-gets-first-winter-ascent-matteo-della-bordella-marco-majori.html

Begguya

Solo ascent of the French Connection on the north buttress of Begguya (Hunter), Central Alaska Range, in six hours to the top of the buttress, May 14, by Balin Miller, who on June 11-13 also soloed the Slovak Direct on the south face of Denali. Earlier in the year (January 5) Miller made the second ascent, solo, of the 1988 route, Reality Bath (600m, rated WI5+/6- by Miller, originally WI7) on the north-northeast face of White Pyramid (3,219m) Canadian Rockies.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217394

Nanga Parbat

The first alpine-style ascent of the Schell Route (ca 3,500m) on the Rupal side of Nanga Parbat (8,125m), Himalaya, June 21-24, by Tiphaine Dupérier and Boris Langenstein (France), and David Goettler (Germany). First ski descent of the mountain from the summit (Dupérier and Langenstein). Paragliding descent from 7,700m by Goettler.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217433

Mount Robson

First ski descent of the Great Couloir (2,950m, WI3, M5, 50° in ascent) on the south face of Mount Robson (3,954m), seven rappels, February 16, by Christina Lustenberger (Canada) and Guillaume Pierrel (France).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217507

Everest

First complete ski descent of Everest without supplementary oxygen via the normal route (ca 3,500m) from Nepal, September 22-23, by Andrzej Bargiel (Poland), and first ski descent of the Hornbein Couloir – Japanese Couloir, 200m of rappelling on pre-fixed ropes during the descent, October 15, by Jim Morrison (USA).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217590

NORWAY

Breitinden

First ascent of Rainborn (480m, WI5 M5-) on the northeast face of Breitinden (1,001m), Senja Island, February 25, by Amelie Kühne and Ines Papert (Germany).

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201217584

 

ALPS

Punta Pioda di Sciora

First ascent of Luce e Tenebre (700m, M8 A3 70°) on the north face of Punta Pioda di Sciora (3,238m), Bregaglia, March 6-9, by Filippo Sala, Roger Schäli, and Silvan Schüpbach (Switzerland).

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/luce-e-tenebre-punta-pioda-report-silvan-schupbach.html

Dent Blanche

First ascent of Le Clin d'Oeil (800m, M7 WI3) on the northwest face of Dent Blanche (4,357m), Valais, December 28-29, by Olivier Kolly (France), Filippo Sala and Silvan Schüpbach (Switzerland).

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/big-new-mixed-climb-dent-blanche-switzerland-olivier-kolly-filippo-sala-silvan-schupbach.html

Tour des Jorasses

First ascent of Grand Couloir Milleottocentocinquanta (550m, AI5 M6+) on the southeast face of the Tour des Jorasses (3,813m), finishing just below the col on the south ridge, March 31, by Niccolò Bruni and Giovanni Ravizza (Italy).

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/mixed-climb-added-tour-des-jorasses-mont-blanc-massif-niccolo-bruni-giovanni-ravizza.html

Pointe Whymper

First ascent of Basique (1,100m, 5+ A2+ M5) on the north spur of Pointe Whymper (4,184m), Grandes Jorasses, December 27-30, by Léo Billon, Amaury Fouillade, Nicolas Jean, and Enzo Oddo (France).

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/big-new-winter-climb-up-point-whymper-on-north-face-of-grandes-jorasses.html

Pointes Supérieur de Pré de Bar

First ascent of Les Barbares 2 (500m, M8+) on the north face of the Pointes Supérieur de Pré de Bar (ca 3,658m), February 4-6, Léo Billon and Amaury Fouillade (France).

https://alpinemag.com/alpinism-mixed-dry-tooling-climbing-level-in-mountains-leo-billon-first-ascent-mont-blanc-massif/

Pointes Supérieur de Pré de Bar

First ascent of Les Barbares 3 (500m, M10) on the north face of the Pointes Supérieur de Pré de Bar (ca 3,658m), February 18-20, by Léo Billon and Enzo Oddo (France).

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/leo-billon-enzo-oddo-establish-les-barbares-3-pre-de-bar-mont-blanc-massif.html

Petit Dru

First ascent of Le Chateau dans le Ciel (1,000m, 7b+) on the west and north faces of the Petit Dru (3,730m), June 18-21, by Yanis Cherqaoui, Baptiste Obino, and Hugo Peruzzo (France).

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/le-chateau-dans-le-ciel-added-petit-dru-yanis-cherqaoui-baptiste-obino-hugo-peruzzo.html

Dent du Requin

First ascent of Shark Attack (650m, 6b M7) on the north face of the Dent du Requin, March 4-6, by Tom Livingstone (UK) and Rob Smith (USA).

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/shark-attack-dent-du-requin-tom-livingstone-rob-smith.html

Dent du Géant

First ascent of Géant dans l'Ame (500m, 6a+ M8+) on the northwest face of the Dent du Géant (4,013m), April 11, by Mathis Garayt, Kilian Moni and Arthur Poindefert (France).

https://www.montagnes-magazine.com/actus-premiere-dent-geant-kilian-moni-mathis-garayt-arthur-poindefert

Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey

First ascent of Bianco Invisibile (800m, 6c, WI5 M7) on the east face of the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (4,112m), March 7, by François Cazzanelli and Giuseppe Vidoni (Italy).

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/bianco-invisibile-added-aiguille-blanche-de-peuterey-mont-blanc-francois-cazzanelli-giuseppe-vidoni.html

Pointe Louise

First ascent of Sous l'oeil d'Adèle (600m, WI5 M5+) on the north face of Pointe Louise (3,668m), Écrins Massif, May 18, by Laetitia Chomette, Kilian Moni, and Pierre Girot (France).

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/sous-l-oeil-d-adele-mixed-climb-added-pointe-louise-france-ecrins.html

Performance in the Alps

A small selection of outstanding ascents or descents of established routes

Fusstein

Enchainment of the three big north faces of the Valsertal, Zillertal Alps: north spur (450m, D+, UIAA V+ in summer) of the Fusstein (3,380m); Diagonale Route (800m, M5- WI3) on the north face of the Schrammacher (3,410m), and Rampenführe (800m, M5/6 WI4) on the north face of the Sagwand (3,227m), all in 11.50 hours on April 12, by Philipp Brugger and Lukas Waldner (Austria).

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Pointe Whymper

First free ascent of Directe de l'Amitié (1,100m, M9+) on the north spur of Pointe Whymper (4,184m), Grandes Jorasses, November 10-13, by Esteban Daligault, Virgile Devin, and Simon Martinet (France).

https://www.montagnes-magazine.com/actus-daligault-devin-martinet-liberent-voie-plus-dure-grandes-jorasses

Petit Dru

First free ascent of the Lafaille Route (1,000m, 8b+) on the west face of the Petit Dru (3,730m), August 5-7, by Léo Billon and Enzo Oddo (France).

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/voie-lafaille-drus-west-face-freed-leo-billon-enzo-oddo.html

Petit Dru

First solo ascent (backroped) of BASE (1,000m, 7a M8+) on the west face of the Petit Dru (3,730m), February 16-21, by Benjamin Védrines (France).

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/benjamin-vedrines-petit-dru-completes-solo-winter-ascent-base.html

Grand Capucin

First solo ascent (backroped) of Voie Petit (450m, 8b) on the east face of the Grand Capucin (3,838m), June 24-25, by Siebe Vanhee (Belgium).

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/siebe-vanhee-first-rope-solo-ascent-voie-petit-grand-capucin.html

Mont Blanc

Enchainment of the four faces of Mont Blanc (4,808m) by ski. Descents of the Peuterey Ridge and northeast face of the Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (southeast face of Mont Blanc), Brenva Spur (850m, east face), Benedetti Couloir (1,400m, southwest face), and Bosses Ridge followed by north ridge of the Dôme du Goûter (north face), 21 hours non-stop on June 9, Benjamin Védrines and Nicolas Jean (France).

https://www.ski-libre.com/infoskirando/benjamin-vedrines-et-nicolas-jean-skient-les-4-faces-du-mont-blanc-a-la-journee/

Trois Dents du Pelvoux

First ski descent of the Chaud Couloir (550m, TD- in ascent) on the north face of the Trois Dents du Pelvoux (3,683m), downclimbed 40m at top and made one 40m rappel, May 17, by Nicolas Jean (France). He continued the same day to ski the righthand northwest couloir on the northwest face of Pointe Durand (3,932m, second descent), the Mettrier Couloir on the southwest face of Point Puiseux (3,946m, second descent), and the north couloir of the Col Est du Pelvoux (3,609m).

https://www.montagnes-magazine.com/actus-pente-raide-nicolas-jean-signe-enchainement-ampleur-pelvoux

82 tops

On June 20, Vivian Bruchez (France) became the first person to climb and ski all 82 tops designated in the UIAA's official list of 4,000m summits. Bruchez's ethic was to climb to the top of each one and begin his descent on skis at the highest feasible point. Four of the summits had never previously been skied and Bruchez notched up 22 first ski descents in completing this project, 21 years after first skiing Mont Blanc.

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Organisateurs 2026